Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [614]
Ko Rawi is 11km west of Ko Adang and has similar limestone hills and dense jungle, with first-rate beaches and large coral reefs offshore. There is a ranger station on Ko Rawi, and Crusoe wannabes must pay 400B to explore the interior of the island. Wild camping is allowed…much to the park ranger’s chagrin.
Other excellent snorkelling spots include the northern side of Ko Yang and tiny Ko Hin Ngam, which is known for its unique stripy pebbles. Legend has it that the stones are cursed and anyone who takes one away will experience bad luck until the stones are returned to their source.
Long-tails from Ko Lipe will take you to Ko Adang and Ko Rawi for 50B per person, although you might have to do a little bargaining.
SONGKHLA PROVINCE
Songkhla’s postal code is 90210, but this ain’t no Beverly Hills! The province’s two main commercial centres, Hat Yai and Songkhla, are not usually affected by the political turmoil plaguing the cities further south. Intrepid travellers will be able to count the number of other tourists on one hand as they wander through local markets, savour Muslim-Thai fusion cuisine and relax on breezy beaches.
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HAT YAI
pop 193,732
Welcome to backcountry Thailand’s version of big city livin’. Songkhla Province’s liveliest town has long been a favourite stop for Malaysian men on their weekend hooker tours. These days Hat Yai gladly shakes hands with globalisation – Western-style shopping malls stretch across the city, providing local teenagers with a spot to loiter and middle-aged ladies with a place to do their cardio. Tourists usually only get a glimpse of the city’s winking commercial lights from the window of their train carriage as they connect the dots along the peninsula, but those who decide to explore will be rewarded with excellent local cuisine (the city has hundreds of restaurants), shopping (DVDs anyone?) and an evening bar scene that brilliantly mixes cosy pubs and bouncing discotheques.
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Information
Bangkok Hatyai Hospital (0 7436 5780-9; bhhimc@bgh.co.th; 75 Soi, 15 Th Phetkasem) One of the best health-care providers in southern Thailand, it offers full medical care and has English-speaking staff.
Immigration office (0 7425 7079; Th Phetkasem) Near the railway bridge; handles visa extensions.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 0 7424 3747; tatsgkhla@tat.or.th; 1/1 Soi 2, Th Niphat Uthit 3) Very helpful staff here speak excellent English and have loads of info on the area.
Tourist police (0 7424 6733; Th Niphat Uthit 3; 24hr) Near the TAT office.
Sights
If you aren’t into shopping malls and cabarets, then Hat Yai falls short in the attraction department. Wat Hat Yai Nai, 1.5km out of town, features a 35m reclining Buddha (Phra Phut Mahatamongkon). Inside the image’s gigantic base is a curious little museum and mausoleum with a souvenir shop. To get here, catch a motorcycle taxi (40B) near the intersection of Th Niphat Uthit l and Th Phetkasem, and get off after crossing the river; it costs about 15B.
Sleeping
Hat Yai has dozens of hotels within walking distance of the train station.
Cathay Guest House (0 7424 3815; 93/1 Th Niphat Uthit 2; r 160-250B) Ludicrously helpful staff and plentiful information about onward travel make up for the slightly scary rooms at this popular cheapie.
Kings Hotel (0 7422 0966; 126-134 Th Niphat Uthit; s/d 450/50B; ) It’s no royal palace, but Kings offers prim rooms stocked with TVs, minifridges and dated decorations (c 1983). It’s two blocks from the train station.
Regency Hotel (0 7435 3333-47; www.regency-hatyai.com; 23 Th Prachathipat; r 800-1400B; ais) This beautiful hotel has that