Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [617]
KO YO
A popular day trip from Songkhla, this island in the middle of Thale Sap is actually connected to the mainland by bridges and is famous for its cotton-weaving industry. There’s a roadside market selling cloth and ready-made clothes at excellent prices. The must-see Thaksin Folklore Museum (0 7459 1618; admission 60B; 8.30am-4.30pm) – no relation to the former prime minister – actively aims to promote and preserve the culture of the region. The pavilions here are reproductions of southern Thai–style houses and contain folk art, handicrafts and traditional household implements.
Sleeping
Songkhla’s hotels tend to be lower priced than other areas in the gulf, which makes going up a budget level a relatively cheap splurge.
Yoma Guest House (0 7432 6433; Th Rong Meuang; r 250-350B; ) Like staying in the home of the Thai grandmother you never knew you had, this homey option offers a batch of cutesy, brightly coloured rooms.
Romantic Guest House (0 7430 7170; 10/1-3 Th Platha; r 250-380B; ) Substantial, airy abodes smell fresh and all come with TVs. The bamboo beds are a charming extra touch. The cheapest rooms have shared toilets.
Green World Palace Hotel (0 7443 7900-8; 99 Th Samakisukson; r 750-900B; ais) When expats say that sleeping in Songkhla is a steal, they’re not lying – Green World is the proof. This classy affair boasts chandeliers, a spiralling staircase in the lobby and a 5th-floor swimming pool with views. Rooms are immaculate and filled with all the mod cons of a hotel twice the price. Look for it a few hundred metres south of town.
BP Samila Beach Hotel (0 7444 0222; www.bphotelsgroup.com; 8 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 1500B; ais) A landmark in quaint Songkhla, the city’s poshest address is actually a really good deal – you’d pay nearly double for the same amenities on the islands. The beachfront establishment offers large rooms with fridges, satellite TVs and a choice of sea or mountain views (both are pretty darn good). BP can arrange a caddie for the neighbouring golf course.
Eating & Drinking
For quality seafood, head to the street in front of the BP Samila Beach Hotel – the best spot is the restaurant directly in the roundabout. If market munching is your game, you’ll find a place to sample street food every day of the week. On Sundays try the bustling market that encircles the Pavilion Hotel. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday feature a night market (which closes around 9pm) near the local fish plant and bus station, and the Friday-morning market sits diagonally opposite the City Hall.
Khao Nawy (0 7431 1805; 14/22 Th Wichianchom; dishes 30-50B; breakfast & lunch) Songkhla’s most lauded curry shop serves up an amazing variety of authentic southern-style curries, soups, stir-fries and salads. Look for the glass case holding several stainless-steel trays of food just south of the sky-blue Chokdee Inn.
J Glass (0 7444 0888; Th Nakhon Nai; dishes 50-420B; lunch & dinner) J Glass is one of the top fa·ràng hang-outs in town. Only the 1st floor is open for lunch, while the welcoming upstairs patio is reserved for dinner. Enjoy Thai faves (that have admittedly been slightly westernised) while watching the quirky artificial waterfalls gush over the windows.
Jetty Restaurant (dishes 150-250B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Jetty offers a special dining experience on Saturday evenings. At 6pm diners are invited to board a boat that wends its way up the river from the Nag Head to Ko Yo and back. The menu features tasty Thai and international standards and waiters speak excellent English as most of them are students at the local university.
If you’re looking for some friendly expats, head to Th Sisuda (north of Th Palatha), where you will find a cluster of tasty spots frequented by the local fa·ràng gang. Corner Bier is a local fave, as is Parlang next door; Parlang is Isan-run, so go for the strips of dried meat or the spicy sôm·am. The Crown Bakery, across the street from Parlang, is Songkhla’s Starbucks-iest spot, featuring free