Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [620]
When you’re finishing toeing the crystal gulf waters, see the boxed text, above, for a couple of cultural suggestions in the area.
Sleeping & Eating
PATTANI TOWN
CS Pattani Hotel (0 7333 5093/4; cspatani@cscoms.com; 299 Moo 4, Th Nong Jik; r from 1500B; ais) If you are spending the night in Pattani, you might as well enjoy it. The CS Pattani features a gorgeous colonial lobby, two pools, an excellent restaurant, a sauna and steam room…the list goes on. Breakfast is included. Ask about discounts.
Satay Jao Kao (08 9737 5417; 37/20 Th Udomwithi; dishes 20-30B; 10am-6pm) This well-respected open-air restaurant serves beef satay local style with cubes of rice and a sweet dipping sauce.
Several other restaurants along Th Udomwithi come highly recommended by Pattani’s Muslim foodies.
THEPHA DISTRICT
Sakom Cabana (0 7431 8065; 136 Moo 4, Tambon Sakom; r 600-1000B; ) Located 40km from Pattani town, this basic resort features a clean compound with several attractive wooden duplex bungalows a short walk from the beach.
Thepa Beach Resort (0 7432 5551; 255 Moo 4, Tambon Thepha; bungalows 1140B; as) Located near the Pattani-Songkhla border, this resort features attractive bungalows (get one by the lotus pond), not to mention a pool and calm stretch of ocean.
Getting There & Around
Minivans are the region’s most popular mode of transport and there are several terminals around Pattani town. As they regularly change location, you will have to ask around for the latest arrival and departure points. Minivans run during daylight hours. Buses to Bangkok depart from the small lot beside a petrol station near the CS Pattani Hotel; call 0 7334 8816 for ticket purchase and reservations. The trip takes 15 to 16 hours and costs between 650B and 1200B depending on the quality of the bus. Local taxis can take you anywhere in town for 10B per person.
NARATHIWAT PROVINCE
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NARATHIWAT
pop 44,200
Originally known as Ban Bang Nara, this small provincial capital was renamed after a visit from King Rama VI. He found the locals to be so welcoming and friendly that he gave the town its present moniker, meaning ‘home of good people’.
Just north of town is Hat Narathat, a 5km-long sandy beach fronted by towering pines, which serves as a veritable public park for locals. Annual long-tail races are held here. The beach is only 3km from of the town centre; you can easily walk there or take a taxi. Five kilometres south of town, Ao Manao used to be a popular sun and sand destination, but today it’s the stomping ground of local fishermen.
The tallest seated-Buddha image in southern Thailand is at Wat Khao Kong, 6km southwest on the way to the train station in Tanyongmat. The image is 17m long and 24m high, and made of reinforced concrete covered with tiny gold-coloured mosaic tiles that glint magically in the sun.
The TAT office (0 7352 2411) is inconveniently located a few kilometres south of town, just across the bridge on the road to Tak Bai.
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Sleeping & Eating
Most of the town’s accommodation is located on and around Th Phupha Phakdi (signposted as ‘Puphapugdee’) along the Bang Nara River.
Ocean Blue Mansion (0 7351 1109; 297 Th Phupha Phakdi; r 350-450B; ) Comparatively new, and the only spot in town to really take advantage of the riverfront view. Rooms include a huge fridge and cable TV.
Jay Sani (08 9657 1546; 50/1 Th Sophaphisai; dishes 30-60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This is where locals go for excellent Thai-Muslim food. Point to whatever curry or stir-fry looks good, but be sure not to miss the sublime beef soup.
Every evening a ragtag night market (Th Pichitbamrung) forms north of the clock tower.
Getting There & Around
Air Asia (0 2515 9999;