Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [79]
Despite the abundance of attractions, both areas are still isolated from the more modern forms of public transport. The Chao Phraya River Express is probably the most efficient way of reaching the area, and the klorng (canal; also spelt khlong) taxi along Khlong Saen Saeb is another convenient option if you’re coming from Siam Square or Sukhumvit. The closest Skytrain station is Ratchathewi. If you’re planning on doing some extensive exploring in the area, consider borrowing one of the free Green Bangkok Bikes (see the boxed text, opposite) available at eight stations around the district.
KO RATANAKOSIN
Bangkok’s biggest and gaudiest tourist sites float regally on this artificial island. The river ferry pier at Tha Chang is the most convenient access point.
Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace
Also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew (Map; 0 2224 1833; admission 350B; 8.30am-3.30pm; bus 508, 512, river ferry Tha Chang) is the colloquial name of the vast, fairy-tale compound that also includes the former residence of the Thai monarch, the Grand Palace.
This ground was consecrated in 1782, the first year of Bangkok rule, and is today Bangkok’s biggest tourist attraction and a pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists and nationalists. The 94.5-hectare grounds encompass more than 100 buildings that represent 200 years of royal history and architectural experimentation. Most of the architecture, royal or sacred, can be classified as Ratanakosin (or old-Bangkok style).
Housed in a fantastically decorated bòht and guarded by pairs of yaksha (mythical giants), the Emerald Buddha is the temple’s primary attraction. It sits atop an elevated altar, barely visible amid the gilded decorations. The diminutive figure is always cloaked in royal robes, one for each season (hot, cool and rainy). In a solemn ceremony, the king (or in recent years, the crown prince) changes the garments at the beginning of each season. For more details about this sacred statue, see the boxed text, opposite. Recently restored Buddhist murals line the interior walls of the bòht, and the murals of the Ramakian (the Thai version of the Indian epic the Ramayana) line the inside walls of the temple compound. Originally painted during the reign of Rama I (1782–1809) and also recently restored, the murals illustrate the epic in its entirety, beginning at the north gate and moving clockwise around the compound.
Except for an anteroom here and there, the buildings of the Grand Palace (Phra Borom Maharatchawong) are now put to use by the king only for certain ceremonial occasions, such as Coronation Day (the king mostly resides in Hua Hin).
Borombhiman Hall (eastern end), a French-inspired structure that served as a residence for Rama VI, is occasionally used to house visiting foreign dignitaries. In April 1981 General San Chitpatima used it as headquarters for an attempted coup. The building to the west is Amarindra Hall, originally a hall of justice but used today for coronation ceremonies.
The largest of the palace buildings is the Chakri Mahaprasat, the Grand Palace Hall. Built in 1882 by British architects using Thai labour, the exterior is a peculiar blend of Italian Renaissance and traditional Thai architecture. It’s a style often referred to as fa·ràng sài chá·dah (Westerner in a Thai crown) because each wing is topped by a mon·dòp – a heavily ornamented spire representing a Thai adaptation of the Hindu mandapa (shrine). The tallest mon·dòp, in the centre, contains the ashes of Chakri kings; the flanking mon·dòp enshrine the ashes of Chakri princes. Thai kings housed their huge harems in the inner palace area, which was guarded by combat-trained female sentries.
Last, from east to west, is the Ratanakosin-style Dusit Hall, which initially served as a venue for royal audiences and later as a royal funerary hall.
Guides can be hired at the ticket kiosk; ignore anyone outside. Wat Phra Kaew and the