Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [81]
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TRAVELS OF THE EMERALD BUDDHA
The Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaew Morakot) holds a prominent position in Thai Buddhism in spite of its size (a mere 66cm) and original material (probably jasper quartz or nephrite jade rather than emerald). In fact, the Emerald Buddha was just another ordinary image, with no illustrious pedigree, until its monumental ‘coming out’ in 15th-century Chiang Rai. During a fall, the image revealed its luminescent interior, which had been covered with plaster (a common practice to safeguard valuable Buddhas from being stolen). After a few successful stints in various temples throughout northern Thailand, the image was stolen by Laotian invaders in the mid-16th century and remained in that country for 200 years.
In 1778 Thailand’s King Taksin waged war against Laos, retrieving the image and mounting it in Thonburi. Later, when the capital moved to Bangkok and General Chakri took the crown, the Emerald Buddha was honoured with one of the country’s most magnificent monuments, Wat Phra Kaew.
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FARE OR UNFAIR?
If you can read Thai, you’ll notice that the entrance fees to many state-run museums, temples, galleries and national parks are significantly cheaper for Thai nationals. Until recently, foreigners generally paid twice as much as the Thais; fair enough, we thought, considering that domestic tax baht fund such important institutions. However, in late 2008 fees were increased significantly, and now foreign visitors pay at least four times as much as domestic visitors. Although museum entrance fees are still generally less than those in the west, a fee of 100B or even 200B may cause some foreign visitors to think twice about visiting a small provincial museum or low-key national park.
On the bright side, if you’re in Bangkok and want to visit the Royal Barge Museum, the National Gallery and the National Museum, there’s a reduced-price entrance ticket that allows access to all three locales for only 350B (a savings of 150B). The 300B entrance fee for Wat Phra Kaew also allows access to the wide variety of attractions at Dusit Palace Park (Click here).
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National Museum
Often touted as Southeast Asia’s biggest museum, the National Museum (Map; 0 2224 1333; 4 Th Na Phra That; admission 200B; 9am-3.30pm Wed-Sun; bus 503, 506, 507, 53, river ferry Tha Chang) is home to an impressive collection of religious sculpture, best appreciated on one the museum’s twice weekly guided tours (9.30am Wed & Thu, in English, German, Japanese & French).
Most of the museum’s structures were built in 1782 as the palace of Rama I’s viceroy, Prince Wang Na. Rama V turned it into a museum in 1874, and the current museum consists of three permanent exhibitions spread out over several buildings.
The history wing has made impressive bounds towards mainstream curatorial aesthetics with a succinct chronology of prehistoric, Sukhothai-, Ayuthaya- and Bangkok-era events and figures. Gems include King Ramakamhaeng’s inscribed stone pillar, said to be the oldest record of Thai writing; King Taksin’s throne; the Rama V section; and the screening of King Prajadhipok’s movie The Magic Ring.
The decorative arts and ethnology exhibit covers every possible handicraft: traditional musical instruments, ceramics, clothing and textiles, woodcarving, regalia and weaponry. The archaeology and art history wing has exhibits ranging from prehistoric to the Bangkok period.
In addition to the main exhibition halls, the Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel includes some well-preserved original murals and one of the country’s most revered Buddha images, Phra Phut Sihing. Legend says the image came from Sri Lanka, but art historians attribute it to 13th-century Sukhothai.
Museum of Siam
This fun new museum (Map; 0 2225 2777; Th Maharat; admission free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bus 508, 512, river ferry Tha Tien) employs a variety of media to explore the origins and culture of the Thai people. Housed in a Rama III–era palace, the