Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [92]
Central Bangkok
Central Bangkok covers a lot of land, but a minimum of visit-worthy sites. The most worthwhile area is Dusit, the royal district of wide streets, monuments and greenery.
WANG SUAN PHAKKAT
An overlooked treasure, Lettuce Farm Palace (Map; 0 2245 4934; Th Sri Ayuthaya; admission 100B; 9am-4pm; Skytrain Phayathai) near Th Ratchaprarop is a collection of five traditional wooden Thai houses that was once the residence of Princess Chumbon of Nakhon Sawan and before that a lettuce farm – hence the name. Within the stilt buildings are displays of art, antiques and furnishings, and the landscaped grounds are a peaceful oasis complete with ducks, swans and a semi-enclosed garden.
The diminutive Lacquer Pavilion, at the back of the complex, dates from the Ayuthaya period and features gold-leaf jataka and Ramayana murals, as well as scenes from daily Ayuthaya life. The building originally sat in a monastery compound on Mae Nam Chao Phraya, just south of Ayuthaya. Larger residential structures at the front of the complex contain displays of Khmer-style Hindu and Buddhist art, Ban Chiang ceramics and a very interesting collection of historic Buddhas, including a beautiful late U Thong–style image.
WAT BENCHAMABOPHIT
You might recognise this temple (Marble Temple; Map; cnr Th Si Ayuthaya & Th Phra Ram V; admission 20B; 8am-5.30pm; bus 72, 503) from the back of the 5B coin. Made of white Carrara marble, Wat Ben, as it’s colloquially known, was built in the late 19th century under Rama V. The large cruciform bòht is a prime example of modern Thai wát architecture. The base of the central Buddha image, a copy of Phitsanulok’s Phra Phuttha Chinnarat, contains the ashes of Rama V. The courtyard behind the bòht exhibits 53 Buddha images (33 originals and 20 copies) representing famous figures and styles from all over Thailand and other Buddhist countries.
DUSIT PALACE PARK
Following Rama V’s first European tour in 1897 (he was the first Thai monarch to visit the continent), he returned home with visions of European castles swimming in his head and set about transforming these styles into a uniquely Thai expression, today’s Dusit Palace Park (Map; 0 2628 6300; bounded by Th Ratchawithi, Th U-Thong Nai & Th Ratchasima; adult/child 100/50B or free with Grand Palace ticket; 9.30am-4pm; bus 70, 510). The royal palace, throne hall and minor palaces for extended family were all moved here from Ko Ratanakosin, the ancient royal court. Today the current King has yet another home and this complex now holds a house museum and other cultural collections.
Originally constructed on Ko Si Chang in 1868 and moved to the present site in 1910, Vimanmaek Teak Mansion contains 81 rooms, halls and anterooms, and is said to be the world’s largest golden-teak building, apparently built without the use of a single nail. The mansion was the first permanent building on the Dusit Palace grounds, and served as Rama V’s residence in the early 1900s. The interior of the mansion contains various personal effects of the king and a treasure trove of early Ratanakosin art objects and antiques. Compulsory tours (in English) leave every half-hour between 9.30am and 3pm, and last about an hour. Free performances of Thai classical dances are staged in a pavilion on the side of the mansion at 10am and 2pm.
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NEWLEY PURNELL & KHUN JU
An interview with a student of Thai language and a Thai language tutor.
Is it really necessary to be able to speak Thai while in Bangkok? Newley: You can certainly get by without it. But I think it’s important to make an effort to learn the local language – it’s a sign of respect.
What kind of mistakes do foreigners commonly make when speaking Thai? Khun Ju: A lot of foreigners cannot pronounce