The Best Travel Writing 2011 - James O'Reilly [65]
Declan was the most instantly recognizable. He wore a heavily soiled, cream-colored cap, claiming it was a gift from a famous American whose name he had long forgotten. I learned a lot about Killybegs from him, but only after I bought him pints of “the black stuff.” He claimed his love affair with Guinness began when he realized the color of the “head” on a pint resembled the color and texture of female breasts.
One evening, he asked if I had ever seen or met “a strange one” on my late night walks back to the cottage. I told him the only creature I had ever seen on the winding, two-mile journey was a badger that once crossed my path. Anyway, there were no street lights and it was impossible to see much beyond the beam of the torchlight I carried. It helped me walk a straight line to avoid falling into ditches on either side of the narrow lane to my cottage.
“So you’ve never seen The Natural?” he whispered.
Before I could ask him who The Natural was, he went off to retrieve a pint someone else had bought him. I walked outside into a cool night and strolled to the harbor to admire the fishing trawlers and enjoy the heavily scented sea air and smells of freshly gutted fish. Five minutes later, I was at the outskirts of Killybegs, walking into the dark countryside with hundreds of insects dancing in the beam of my torch. I had walked about a mile when the torch batteries died. Had it been a familiar west of Ireland night when the sky and its myriad stars were visible, I would have felt comfortable walking the rest of the way without artificial light. But this was an overcast night and I was suddenly plunged into darkness. I continued my journey at a much slower pace, hoping to stay in the center of the lane. I was confident if I did that for twenty minutes I would eventually reach the part of the lane where tarmac gave way to a stone path. At that point, I would know to veer right onto a grassy, elevated path. From there it was 150 yards to my cottage but I now kicked myself for not having the foresight to leave lights on in the cottage. My real concern was if I missed the cut I would find myself heading for cliffs overlooking the ocean.
Suddenly the eerie silence was broken by the faint sound of someone approaching from the direction of the cottage. I called out but no one answered. I began walking again and after several minutes I heard footsteps, this time coming from behind me. I swung round and the footsteps ceased. Bracing myself for an assault, I got into a fighting stance and remained like that for several minutes. Convinced the thereat had passed, I walked on a step at a time, my fists still clenched. Suddenly, I was frozen still by the sound of a person or animal rushing through undergrowth. Then something brushed me gently in what seemed like a split second. I was beginning to think I was going out of my mind when all of a sudden a face appeared several feet from me. It was a grinning face lit by a torch illuminating only the nose and eyes. The face seemed to belong to a grown man but the eyes had the wondrous expression of a child. The person staring at me was slim and about 5 feet 8 inches tall. The weird apparition lasted only seconds because the torch was switched off and