The Blind Assassin - Margaret Atwood [146]
After London we went to Paris, by channel boat and then by train. The shape of the days in Paris was much the same as those in London, although the breakfasts were different: a hard roll, strawberry jam, coffee with hot milk. The meals were succulent; Richard made quite a fuss over them, and especially over the wines. He kept saying we weren’t in Toronto, a fact that was self-evident to me.
I saw the Eiffel Tower but did not go up it, having a dislike of heights. I saw the Panthéon, and Napoleon’s tomb. I did not see Notre Dame, because Richard did not favour churches, or at least not Catholic ones, which he considered enervating. Incense in particular he considered stultifying to the brain.
The French hotel had a bidet, which Richard explained to me with the trace of a smirk after he caught me washing my feet in it. I thought, They do understand something the others don’t, the French. They understand the anxiety of the body. At least they admit it exists.
We stayed at the Lutetia, which was to become the Nazi headquarters during the war, but how were we to know that? I would sit in the hotel café for morning coffee, because I was afraid to go anywhere else. I had the idea that if I lost sight of the hotel I would never be able to get back to it. I knew by then that whatever French I had been taught by Mr. Erskine was next to useless: Le coeur a ses raisons que la raison ne connaît point would not get me any more hot milk.
An old walrus-faced waiter attended to me; he had the knack of pouring the coffee and the hot milk from two jugs, held high in the air, and I found this entrancing, as if he were a child’s magician. One day he said to me – he had some English – “Why are you sad?”
“I’m not sad,” I said, and began to cry. Sympathy from strangers can be ruinous.
“You should not be sad,” he said, gazing at me with his melancholy, leathery walrus eyes. “It must be the love. But you are young and pretty, you will have time to be sad later.” The French are connoisseurs of sadness, they know all the kinds. This is why they have bidets. “It is criminal, the love,” he said, patting my shoulder. “But none is worse.”
The effect was a little spoiled the next day, when he propositioned me, or I think that is what it was: my French wasn’t good enough to tell. He wasn’t so old after all – forty-five, perhaps. I should have accepted. He was wrong about the sadness, though: far better to have it while you’re young. A sad pretty girl inspires the urge to console, unlike a sad old crone. But never mind that part.
Then we went to Rome. Rome seemed familiar to me – at least I had a context for it, provided long ago by Mr. Erskine and his Latin lessons. I saw the Forum, or what was left of it, and the Appian Way, and the Coliseum, looking like a mouse-eaten cheese. Various bridges, various well-worn angels, grave and pensive. I saw the Tiber flowing along, yellow as jaundice. I saw St. Peter’s, though only from the outside. It was very big. I suppose I ought to have seen Mussolini’s Fascist troops in their black uniforms, marching around and roughing people up – were they doing that yet? – but I did not see them. That sort of thing tends to be invisible at the time unless you yourself happen to be the object of it. Otherwise you see it only later, in newsreels, or else in films made long after the event.
In the afternoons I would order a cup of tea – I was getting the hang of ordering things, I was figuring out what tone to use with waiters, how to keep them at a safe distance. While drinking the tea I would write postcards. My postcards were to Laura and to Reenie, and several to Father. They had photographs on them of the buildings I had been taken to visit – picturing, in tiny sepia detail, what I ought to have seen. The messages I wrote on them were fatuous.