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The Calculus Diaries - Jennifer Ouellette [93]

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Laboratory, who explained that it’s easier to establish directionality along San Diego’s far more sheltered coastline than it is in Hawaii, where wave directionality isn’t clear at all—the waves are literally coming in from all directions at once. So the San Diego algorithms don’t apply; scientists can’t make the same set of underlying assumptions. But if Garces’ hunch turns out to be right, infrasound could end up being a very useful tool for oceanographic monitoring in that region.

The raw infrasound data Garces collects requires a great deal of signal processing and analysis before real-time surf infrasonic monitoring can yield useful insights into ocean wavefronts. Because the waves that eventually hit the shores of Kona are an accumulation of many different waves of varying frequency, part of that processing involves breaking down complex waveforms into the individual component waves. This can be done thanks to a method devised by eighteenth-century French mathematician Jean-Baptiste-Joseph Fourier, a procedure known as a Fourier transform. I wasn’t able to find any historical evidence that Fourier, like Twain, ever tried his hand at surfing. But I’m sure Fourier would have made an excellent surfer—at least in theory. This was a man well versed in periodic functions.

Fourier had a gift for making waves. Born in 1768, he was the son of a very fertile tailor in the village of Auxerre; Fourier had eleven siblings, as well as three half-siblings from his father’s first marriage. Orphaned by age ten, the young Jean-Baptiste received an early rudimentary education at a local convent, thanks to a recommendation by the Bishop of Auxerre, and he proved such an apt pupil that he went on to study at the École Royale Militaire of Auxerre. There he fell in love with mathematics, although he initially planned to enter the priesthood. Math won out in the end; by 1790 Fourier was teaching at his alma mater in Auxerre.

Perhaps his desire to focus on mathematical research—and his inability to accomplish much of significance in his earliest years—was influenced by the tumultuous times in which he lived. Revolution was brewing in France. Fourier was sympathetic at first to the revolutionary cause, drawn by “the natural ideas of equality,” and a hope “of establishing among us a free government exempt from kings and priests.” He joined his local Revolutionary Committee but soon regretted it, as the ultraviolent Reign of Terror gripped France and thousands of nobles and intellectuals fell victim to the guillotine. The streets of Paris literally ran with blood.

It was frighteningly easy to run afoul of the murderous mob mentality that prevailed during the Terror; the movement soon splintered into squabbling factions, despite sharing similar goals, and rampant hysteria spread throughout France. Wise men kept their heads down and tried not to attract attention, as almost anyone could be accused of treason for the slightest perceived infraction against the new republic in that volatile environment. Fourier made the mistake of defending the stance of his own Auxerre faction before a rival sect while on a trip to Orléans. In July 1794, he was arrested and imprisoned for the views he’d expressed on that trip, and found himself facing the guillotine.

He was fortunate that his imprisonment occurred just before Maximilien Robespierre—mastermind of the Reign of Terror—ran afoul of his own revolution and lost his head to the angry mob he helped incite. With the death of Robespierre, the Revolution lost steam, and Fourier and his fellow prisoners were freed. Fourier had the good fortune to be selected for a new teacher-training school to help rebuild France, where he studied under three of the most prominent French mathematicians: Lagrange, Laplace (who wisely fled Paris during the Terror), and Gaspard Monge. By September 1795, Fourier was teaching at the prestigious École Polytechnique.

All this occurred before Fourier turned thirty. But the quiet life of contemplation still eluded him. A few years after his academic appointment, he joined Napol

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