The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [145]
With typical humility, the affable Peters is quick to share kudos with others. He points out that bar manager Chris Morris at Khyber Pass was already selling good beers when he had his own aha! moment. “A lot of credit has to go to Craig LaBan too, our Philadelphia Inquirer food reviewer,” adds Peters. “He’s into beer, and every time he reviews any restaurant he talks about the beer selection, so nobody will dare to open without giving serious consideration to beer.”
When you get to Monk’s Café, and you have to if you love Belgian beer and food, look for Tom, who may be, if the night is winding down, sipping an Orval or his house beer. He is still enthralled with what has unfolded around him: Belgian beer is more than an oddity now, it’s practically a new norm of eating and drinking. “I love my bar,” he says. “You have people in New York and all these cities that have the same passion I have and they can’t get the culture to take hold. Well, maybe now they can, but twenty-five years ago it wasn’t working.” But then again, it was never about fashion at Monk’s, nor was it about Tom. It was about keeping good company. “I never look at trends. You know, I taste something that I like and then I want to share it with somebody.”
RESURRECTION ALEHOUSE
2425 Grays Ferry Ave. • Philadelphia, PA 19146 • (215) 735-2202 resurrectionalehouse.com • Established: 2009
SCENE & STORY
Another Hartranft venture, this modestly sized, clean-cut, two-level beer bar is in a mostly residential Graduate Hospital area of Philly. With thirteen taps and about forty-five hard-to-get mostly European bottles—from La Rulles to Smisje and Russian River—the beer options would be impressive on their own, but also square quite nicely with a menu of Southern revival cuisine including renowned twice-fried chicken served with a spiced honey drizzle.
PHILOSOPHY
Quality, not quantity. The beer lists are short and very sweet. Often as it should be.
KEY BEER
Brasserie De La Senne Zinnebier, a 6% ABV Belgian style pale ale that is honey-blonde with a great balance of spice and breadiness.
SOUTH PHILADELPHIA TAP ROOM
1509 Mifflin St. • Philadelphia, PA 19145 (215) 271-SPTR (7787) • southphiladelphiataproom.com Established: 2003
SCENE & STORY
Just the words “South Philly Taproom” have a good ring. With fourteen taps along the lines of California’s sought-after Russian River, along with Founders and Sly Fox, this well-established corner bar deep in South Philly sponsors “Meet the Brewer” nights (Rob Tod, of Allagash, was a recent guest) and earns notice for its upmarket bar food, like a $10 grass-fed bacon cheeseburger.
PHILOSOPHY
Neighborhood hangout with the best possible beer and beloved bar food.
KEY BEER
Stoudt’s Karnival Kolsch, a crisp 4.8% ABV beer with a light body and dry finish.
McGILLIN’S OLDE ALE HOUSE
1310 Drury St. • Philadelphia, PA 19107 (215) 735-5562 • mcgillins.com • Established: 1860
SCENE & STORY
Philly’s oldest continuously operating pub and one of this country’s best Irish pubs, McGillin’s opened as the Bell in Hand during the waning days of the Buchanan administration (the only U.S. President from Pennsylvania, alas). Its name came from William McGillin, the publican who ran the place and lived with his thirteen children upstairs. Crammed with dark wood paneling and exposed beams, brewery signs, parade bunting, iron chandeliers, plaques, and bric-a-brac, it’s everything you’d hope to see in a 150-year-old pub.
PHILOSOPHY
Hey, where ya from? Friendly and sometimes a bit wild, McGillin’s inspires cheer.
KEY BEER
Try a McGillin’s IPA, brewed for the pub by Stoudt’s, which also brews a real ale and lager for this Philly institution. Other craft standout taps include Yard’s, Flying Fish, Victory, Sly Fox, and Dogfish Head.
DOCK STREET BREWING CO.
701 S. 50th St. • Philadelphia, PA 19143 • (215) 726-2337 dockstreetbeer.com • Established: 1985
SCENE