The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [162]
PHILOSOPHY
By the books—mostly. Orlik trained at Doemens Academy in Germany, and like all trained brewers in Germany, is most comfortable (and quite proud) to be working within the strictures of Reinheitsgebot, a medieval German “purity” edict that holds brewers to four base ingredients (malt/ wheat, hops, yeast, and water), using naturally generated carbonation, and a variety of other strictures.
KEY BEER
In addition to his contract beers and seasonals, Heiner does three main brews: Maibock, Hefe-Weisse, and Strawberry Ale, his most popular brand and also his least traditional (and one he would hesitate to brew in hidebound Germany). After a festival for the red fruits in the area, Heiner began experimenting with adding the berries to beer, eventually settling on a method of adding the berries into a conditioning tank after removing yeast so the alcohol level wouldn’t spike. The result was a sensation locally; customers wanted the first kegs—the slushiest ones—full of all that berriness. To the hop head, it’s hard to swallow, but a thirsty traveler can get into the spirit. “I’m very proud about this one,” says Orlik. “In the summer, when you work in the garden, it’s very refreshing.” Yep—just about as refreshing as finding a traditional German brewery in rural Louisiana.
BEST of the REST: LOUISIANA
DBA NEW ORLEANS
618 Frenchmen St. • New Orleans, LA 70116–2002 • (504) 942–3731 • dbabars.com/dbano
Opened in 2000, The Big Easy outpost of good-beer maven Ray Deter’s trio of good beer bars (along with one in Manhattan and one in Brooklyn), DBA New Orleans is located down on Frenchmen Street in an historic building far enough from the touristy Quarter to keep the yahoos out but not so far it feels dangerous or too quiet (still, it’s best to travel in groups or cabs at night). Expect high ceilings and walls made of cypress, exposed brick, black chalkboards with beer and whiskeys well organized, and a steady stream of impressive bands like the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, with occasional appearances by the likes of Jimmy Buffett and Stevie Wonder.
COLUMBIA STREET TAP ROOM AND GRILL
434 N. Columbia St. • Covington, LA 70433 • (985) 898–0899 • columbiastreettaproom
The home of Heiner Brau and a good little oyster bar (Buster’s Place), Covington (population: 9,000) has a sleepy Mayberry feel. Still, it comes alive on occasion, especially when the frequent live bands fire up at “the tap room,” as this craft beer bar opened in 1996 is commonly called. It’s got classic old bar appointments, with exposed brick walls and high ceilings, old Dixie Beer signs, and a wide, handsome antique bar. Built in 1906 by the Seilers, a prominent family in town, the building operated for years as a tavern-inn with lodgings on the second floor. Of the thirty taps, about half are Louisiana brews from the likes of Heiner, Abita, and Bayou Teche, with some better imports such as Blanche de Bruxelles thrown in for good measure. The draught lineup is complemented by a smallish but solid bottle list, as well as a selection of burgers and soul food.
THE BARLEY OAK
2101 Lakeshore Dr. • Mandeville, LA 70448 • (985) 727–7420 • thebarleyoak.com
Located at the end of a residential road on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, the Barley Oak (est. 2009) is a new British- and German-themed pub with a patio-equipped upstairs bar drawing from a selection of 47 taps and 120 bottles. The service is warm and friendly; the view from the patio on a clear day, looking south toward New Orleans over a Spanish-moss-draped live oak and miles of blue water, is unbeatable. Beer prices run high on rarer brews; still, there could be no better place to catch a sunset and an inexpensive bite (nothing over $11) before heading back into NoLa for the evening. The draught list represents locals with pride, and among the mostly conventional bottle list are some goodies from Blaugies, Brooklyn, Jolly Pumpkin,