The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [46]
PHILOSOPHY
Belgian-style beers with cork-and-wire cage and a medieval theme running through the label art and brew names.
KEY BEER
Ask for Duck Duck Gooze, a wild yeast beer of 5.5% ABV made of a blend from young and older barrel-aged ales. But it’s extremely rare, so you might have better luck with Bourbon Barrel Aged Angel’s Share, a beer on the other, less acidic, but no less interesting end of the flavor spectrum (12% ABV). In distillers’ parlance, the “angel’s share” is the proportion of precious spirit lost to evaporation in the barrel. This barrel-aged brew marries the woody, vanilla-laced smokiness of a classic sipping bourbon to a rich, port-like beer.
PIZZA PORT SOLANA BEACH
135 N. Highway 101 • Solana Beach, CA 92075 (858) 481-7332 • pizzaport.com • Established: 1987
SCENE & STORY
There are now three other Pizza Port locations (San Clemente, Carlsbad, and Ocean Beach), but this one—founded by siblings Vince “Vinny” and Gina Marsaglia, who sold its first beer in 1992—is the original, smallest, and to many, the best. Located in an unassuming stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway with the beach close enough to smell but not see, Pizza Port combines two very elemental things: great pizza and great beer. The inside is cozy and cheerful, and if you sit to the right of the tap row, you can look down into the sunken brewing area to watch the action unfold.
PHILOSOPHY
Pizza and beer, good times are near.
KEY BEER
The rich, dark, and coppery Sharkbite Red (6% ABV) is the big seller here—it goes well with spicy pizza dishes—but try the seasonal as well.
STONE BREWING CO. & WORLD BISTRO
1999 Citracado Pkwy. • Escondido, CA 92029 • (760) 471-4999 stonebrew.com • stoneworldbistro.com • Established: 1996
SCENE & STORY
Founded in San Marcos, Stone moved to its present location in 2006, and it’s more or less a Disneyland for beer lovers. First they built a sprawling eco-friendly compound, complete with a natural-boulder-tunnel-like entrance, an acre of gardens, and a huge roof solar array, cutting the power usage considerably. Then there’s a chic, glassy, 12,000-square-foot restaurant looking out on the gardens and a patio of reclaimed bricks (with side and outdoor bars, for overflow).
The eatery has a central U-shaped bar area with 32 drafts and 120 bottles from Stone and other excellent domestic and international craft breweries. It’s all laid out around an island of boulders and bamboo growing from a bed of river rocks in the center of the room, which has nice old weathered wood tables for a counterpoint. The menu is long, using only local and organic vegetables and breads, hormone-free and natural meats. The spicy duck tacos, made with chile de árbol and the brewery’s Levitation Ale-infused barbecue sauce, will require quantities of cold beer close at hand—they’re fiery.
PHILOSOPHY
Righteous. Brewing-wise the beers are always well put together, if on the intense side (with notable exceptions). For the most part, Stone Brewing’s “extreme” beers are like standard ales in overdrive, with a side dish of attitude. (These are the guys who brought the beer-drinking public “Arrogant Bastard” ale, after all.) Steve Wagner, Stone’s brewmaster, has spent years creating radical riffs on traditional styles: aggressively hopped ales fermented to a high alcohol percentage, usually around 7% ABV and sometimes nearly