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The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [76]

By Root 1194 0
Red Lodge and the incredible drive to Bozeman near the Beartooth Highway.

7 – DAY

Fly into Bozeman or Missoula and drive north to Whitefish along Flat-head Lake.

Billings

MONTANA

BREWING CO.

113 N. 28th St. • Billings, MT 59101 • (406) 252-9200

www.montanabrewingcompany.com • Established: 1994

SCENE & STORY

Situated downtown in the historic headquarters of what was once the Montana Power Company, MBC is a popular dining and sipping spot for locals and out-of-towners alike. Thanks to the ongoing refurbishment of the Babcock Theater, this part of town is becoming the arts core of the city. With a reputation for good burgers, nachos, and pizza, the portions are huge—as they are throughout Montana—but within reason. The interior is traditional brewpub, and a bit dim beneath craftsman glass fixtures. But it’s comfortable, with wooden booths and a large central bar area and tables in back that offer of view of a tidy brew house behind glass. It’s quiet; the sports bar Hooligan’s next door seems to siphon off the loudest cheering sections, but there’s a large flat-screen in the front area for the truly devoted.

PHILOSOPHY

The whole place is festooned with banners and descriptions of the company’s many GABF and World Beer Cup (held in even years) medals earned over the years, most recently in 2010 (the sole winner for the state, for Sandbagger’s Gold), attesting to the effort that goes into the beer. The brewery claims it was the first in the state to do any barrel aging, a costly and time-consuming experiment for any brewery.

KEY BEER

The lineup is fairly standard-issue brewpub fare—they’ve got a well-made but familiar classic range from pale and golden ale to stout—but MBC’s Whitetail Wheat, a GABF winner for American wheat beers, is above par, with a clean-tasting, full-but-not-too-sweet body and a faintly spicy finish. The Sandbagger Gold and the Sharptail Pale Ale are two other beers on the lighter end of the spectrum, but seasonals (such as a recent fall release, Drunkin’ Pumpkin), a pleasingly spicy but light at 4.6% ABV amber and slightly tannic coffee stout round out the offerings nicely, too.

ANGRY HANK’S

2405 1st Ave. North • Billings, MT 59101

(406) 252-3370 • Established: 2006

SCENE & STORY

Angry Hank, the story goes, was a cantankerous local that brewer Tim Mohr knew as a kid growing up. But there are no bad vibes here in Mohr’s small converted repair shop, with retractable, glass-filled garage doors and a cozy patio. The crowd is lively and eclectic; you’re as likely to see a bearded hippy as a U.S. Marine sipping one of the adventurously named beers that give this place some of its ample personality (Head Trauma IPA; Dog Slobber Brown; Street Fight Imperial Red). The high stools, small wood tables, corrugated metal accents, and gray bricks give it a smart, slightly urban feel. On most if not all afternoons, it’s well packed (capacity is a scant sixty-four), and there’s no kitchen—unless you count the popcorn popper parked along one wall. The staff and clientele are clearly outdoorsy, and the walls display pictures of climbs and rides that don’t look the least bit angry.

PHILOSOPHY

Mohr makes use of locally grown hops—a novelty in Montana—when he can, and pushes stylistic limits beyond the norm, resulting in some excellent beers like those mentioned above, and his seasonals, such as a recent Oktoberfest, reveal serious brewing chops. You can tell he’s watching the brewing world develop and eager to keep his drinkers enthused and curious about what’s coming next. This will be the key to survival for many new breweries across the West: innovate and improve without kowtowing to trends—yet without blindly ignoring them, as the beer world embraces newness with more and more vigor—all while building a base of returning, happy drinkers. Easier said than done.

KEY BEER

The 4% ABV Anger Management Blonde Wheat is a tasty start, with its accents of coriander and orange peel coming through without dominating the beer. Those ingredients are added during the boiling stage with hops, and

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