The High-Protein Cookbook - Linda West Eckhardt [5]
With all of its great qualities, you may be wondering why is it that we most often order fish in a restaurant and not at the fish market. We figure it is fear of getting bad fish, plus not enough information on how to prepare this delicate protein source.
When cooking fish, know that it’s more important to purchase the freshest variety you can get, rather than the exact species called for in the recipe. Only purchase fish from vendors who keep their wares on ice, and who make at least twice-weekly trips to their wholesale source. (In our experience, Tuesdays and Fridays are when markets get their supplies.) Lastly, always cook fish the day you get it—it’s that fragile.
If you’re buying a whole fish, ask the fishmonger to clean it for you. Choose a fish with bright, clear eyes. Sunken, cloudy eyes means it’s past its prime. Never hesitate to ask for a sniff. Any odor of ammonia means the fish is gone. If you’re buying fillets, ask the fishmonger when he got them in; if they’ve been frozen (not necessarily a bad thing); and ask for a sniff. If the layers of meat are gaping, the fish is over the hill. The meat should look firm, shiny, and clear. It should also smell briny and fresh—not fishy or of ammonia. Ask the fishmonger to double wrap the fish, putting ice in the outside plastic bag. Keep it on ice, double bagged in the refrigerator, until you’re ready to cook later that day.
Contrary to what some people think, the best time of year to eat shellfish is in the winter. Any fisherman will tell you that as the oceans get colder, the fish tastes better. Most Gulf Coast natives (us included) will only eat shellfish in the months with an “r” in it. And we are suspicious of September. Nearly all shrimp is frozen the minute it is caught. So if you can buy it frozen in 5-pound blocks, you have more control over when it is defrosted. This is how restaurateurs and caterers buy it. Just remember to give the shrimp enough time to thaw—overnight in the refrigerator or in cold water. Partial defrosting to break off what you need is okay, too, and preferable to buying thawed shrimp.
The other problem most home cooks have with fish is that they tend to overcook it. Fish and shellfish cook very quickly. When overcooked, they become dry and rubbery. They are not chicken. They do not need to be well-done. As you begin to buy and cook fish and shellfish more often, you will increase your comfort level. Make a regular date to stop by the fish counter, preferably the day the major shipment comes in (not Sunday night). Soon, cooking fish will be become very easy.
Lastly, remember a recipe is only a guide. If the recipe calls for cod and the store only has mahimahi, then feel free to substitute. Perhaps it is seafood’s versatility that makes it the most valuable. Go forth and eat fish.
Sea Bass with Mango Chutney, Ginger, and Black Sesame Seeds
The buttery flavor of sea bass is a delicious complement to the chutney, ginger, and sesame. Serve over a crunchy bed of shredded iceberg lettuce.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Baking time: 15 minutes
Cooking spray
Two 6-ounce striped bass fillets
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger (see note)
1 tablespoon soy souce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
Salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste
¼ cup mango chutney
3 cups shredded iceberg lettuce
Ginger and Hot Red Pepper Vinaigrette
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Spray an 8 X 8 X 8-inch Pyrex baking dish with cooking spray. Place the fillets in the baking dish. Sprinkle each fillet with ginger, soy sauce, and sesame oil. Lightly salt and pepper. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and spoon 2 tablespoons