The Indian Ocean - Michael Pearson [181]
going out to India, and later coming from the colonies to serve in World War I, travelled in rather squalid and crowded conditions, while their officers had three-quarters of the ship, complete with cabins, lounges, smoking rooms, libraries and fine food. Wilfred Pearce, travelling with his mounted regiment to war in Europe in 1914, complained of 'a great deal of pinching... ones hammock, towels and soap very often disappear. I have also lost my overcoat several times.' The troopers had to look after their horses, and 'Doing stables means a good deal of work as the horses have to be exercised a good deal and all the stalls cleaned.'129 On immigrant ships bound for the colonies conditions again were often crowded and uncomfortable. Sometimes they even helped on board. Albert Loaring was on a ship with both steam and sail. Once he and others helped bring in sail, and then 'the Captain had us down in his Cabin, and gave us a glass of rum each that had helped [bring in the sail]. A Glass full of Raw Rum full not half full. He is a Splendid Captain. You would not find another Captain like him.'130 Another steerage passenger returning to London from Australia had to do his own washing up, and there were no baths: 'when it gets hot weather we may have the hose turned on us early of a morning.' The ship had a refrigerated room for meat and poultry, but steerage had very poor food and some paid extra to the steward to get better. One night he saw the butcher 'weigh an ice-preserved Murray cod of fourteen lbs for the rich mans dinner.' Even church services and impromptu entertainments were segregated according to class. Another migrant had a very hot passage through the Red Sea. Four or five of his fellows 'went off in a dead faint this afternoon, and some of the 1st class passengers going the same way, the Captain put the ship to go around.' Later he noted that 'There is a fancy dress ball tonight in the 1st Saloon Deck, but we can see nothing of it'131 On one typical passenger liner in the 1920s there were 732 third-class passengers, and twelve first-class. The latter shared 'A' deck with the officers, doctor and chief steward, and had a dining room at the forward end. Third class were on 'C' deck, 248 in berths in permanent cabins, and 434 in portable cabins fixed in compartments which sometimes were used for cargo. On 'B' deck there was a dining room with long benches, a smoke room and social hall, and some promenade space too.132
I have read masses of travel accounts as I thought about this book. My absolute favourite traveller is an unlikely one. Her name was Juanita Harrison, a poor black woman born in Mississippi around 1890. Her account gives excellent impressions of travel for the masses, and reveals a most engaging and refreshing character. I will try not to quote too much of her idiosyncratic account. Her central attitude was that 'theres not so much difference in Human Bines once you mix Them up.' In March 1929 she travelled third-class on the Orana, of the Orient line, going from Suez to Colombo.
Well the Orana are a Queen. I went straight to see about my cabin as I intended to get off if I didnt get what I asked for. the Purser said I wanted all jam. he gave me an uper Berth in the quiet foot of the Ship with Two lovely modist young Greek Girls one are going To Sydney to be married. Her skin are so fair she have never used Powder the other are a very modist Flapper we keep the Cabin neat and all retire at the same hour so everything are peasful in that line.... On boad are Hundered of English going to Australia at the expence of the Government young couples with their children and single young men and Girls from 17 to 22 and they are certainly a bright healthy handsome ship load. the Third class are lovely large wide decks a swiming pool everything like a pin then a large laundry with soft water and ironing boads. at night moost of the Girls sleep on deck since it became warm they use the First Deck and the Boys the Second. we had chicken [her favourite] only one day and that day I was sleeping under a life boat