The Indian Ocean - Michael Pearson [186]
As they neared Mumbai men arriving to serve in India found that
During the last few days a feeling of excitement did begin to build up. There was the hot, sunny weather, the flying fish dropping little droplets of water on to the smooth sea – everything seemed to be beautiful. There was a difference in the air or in the atmosphere or in the heat or in the way the wind blew or possibly even the smell, and then the unique smell of India, difficult to pinpoint, partly the populace, partly the different vegetation, partly the very rapid fall of dusk and the cooling off which leads to a most lovely scent just after sundown.150
And so also Frederic Trench, arriving from Ireland to serve in the EIC army in 1826. Nearing Chennai,
On turning out this morning at four o'clock I heard that the morning gun from Fort St George had been distinctly heard, and hastening on the poop, anxious to get the first view of the Asiatic shores, I was surprised and delighted with the balmy fragrance of fruits and flowers which the land breeze brought us from the shore and about five minutes afterwards not less so, as we strained our eyes towards the long-wished for port to perceive the land and the glaring white houses of Madras on the verge of the horizon. As we gradually and slowly approached, the view became more distinct and was truly gratifying after so long an absence from any object to relieve the eye from the dull, boundless and unvarying expanse of sky and ocean.151
This, it must be pointed out, was not just an arrival at a new place, say going across the Atlantic to America. This was arrival in a mysterious, fabled, different place, the East.
Not all maritime travel was oceanic, and we can conclude this lengthy account of European travellers by noting coastal and riverine travel. Isabel Burton in 1876 took a middle-sized steamer down the west Indian coast from Mumbai to Goa. The voyage was pleasant: 'beautifully clean, with good table, excellent wines, airy cabins, great civility, ship very steady in wind and swell, fares extravagantly dear.' The seas were rough, even though being May the southwest monsoon would not yet have started. The steamer stood off the coast and let passengers go ashore to Goa in a row boat, a distance of eight miles and a rather hazardous eight miles too. Getting back on board some weeks later, after a very unpleasant stay in Goa (a 'fetid hole') was extremely dangerous. They waited four days for their steamer to arrive, for although they were meant to run like clockwork, every two weeks, theirs was much delayed. (For the actual process of getting on board, see pages 35–6.)152
Again Juanita Harrison provides a nice contrast. In 1929 she went from Chittagong to Rangoon in a packed local steamer:
they have many hundred 3rd Class on board at one end of the Boat are a Hindoo resturant and a Mohammed one Both very clean I had dinner from the Mohammed. Chicken curry with Rice. The curry doesnt tast nothing like the dryed curry powder we get. Here they use the fresh Curry. I ate so much and to fast so with the Sea became seasick and felt wonderful after. When I came on boad they said that European women were not allowed to travelle as Deck Passanges. I answered I had my ticket and I couldnt pay any more and if they didnt like it they must pay the differents. everything is going lovely now.
Later she met 'another Gentleman a Very smart Professor and a strong Buddish He talked for 2 hours to me on that faith and I was so thankful it was just what I wanted to hear I sat very quiet and took it all in he spoke about it said I was a good listner as most Christians argue.'153
In 1837 Emily Eden went on a voyage up the Ganga with her brother. She complained about the discomfort, too many dinners, and so on, but this was a very luxurious, imperial progression, for her brother was Lord Auckland, the Governor General. The vast entourage was in 'flats' towed by a steamer. It was a slow progress indeed, making only 200 miles in the first ten days, partly as the boats kept