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never be so high as the same bread made with salt. Since denser loaves are more flavorful, this is a natural compensation for the absence of salt. Nonetheless, you do want the bread to rise, so be sure to knead your dough as well as you can, letting the gluten develop as much strength as possible. If kneading is difficult for you and making saltless bread important to your health, it would be worth investing in a kneading machine, either a dough hook or food processor, to do the muscle work for you.

Incidentally, making rolls out of all or part of the dough has special advantages when you bake salt-free. Rolls can rise longer than loaves without danger of collapsing, and the increased crust area gives extra flavor and appeal—especially when poppy or sesame seeds add their cheery zest. Turn to Small Wonders, for shaping suggestions.

For information about low-sodium leavenings for quick breads please refer.

Saltless Variety Breads

¼ cup raisins (35 g)

2 cups water (475 ml)

2 teaspoons active dry yeast (¼ oz or 7 g)

½ cup warm water (120 ml)

5 cups whole wheat flour (750 g)

¼ cup skim milk powder (30 g)

½ cup sunflower seeds, chopped (28 g)

1 cup buckwheat, rye, or triticale flour, OR

2 cups rolled oats (150 g)

This bread is tasty, nutritious, satisfying. If you knead with a food processor, the first step of the recipe should be done in advance, either several hours ahead or the day before, so that the raisins and water can be chilled. Otherwise the dough will be far too warm to make good bread.

Simmer the raisins in the water for 5 minutes, then blend smooth in blender or processor (or chop fine by hand). Set mixture aside to cool.

Dissolve the yeast in warm water. Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl, make a well in the center and pour in the liquids. Stir from the center out to make a slightly stiff dough, adding more water or flour if necessary. Knead well, a full 20 minutes by hand, until the dough is supple.

Cover the dough in the bowl to protect it from drafts and let it rise at room temperature until a gentle finger-poke about ½ inch deep—wet your finger first!—leaves a hole that does not fill in or fills in very slowly: about 1 ½ hours. Deflate the dough and let it rise again, about 45 to 60 minutes.

Divide the dough in two and knead gently into rounds, being careful not to rip the smooth top surface. Use dusting flour lightly as necessary. Let the rounds rest until they soften, about 15 minutes, then shape the loaves for loaf pans or round 2 quart casseroles with lids. Roll in oats for an attractive touch. Let rise again in a warm place until spongy, but be careful not to overproof—a fingerprint indentation should not remain in the dough but should fill in slowly. Preheat the oven to 425°F in time for it to be up to temperature when the bread is ready to go in.

If you bake the loaves in covered casseroles, pour 2 tablespoons warm water over each one before covering and baking. Bake for 20 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 350°F and bake until done, another 20 or 30 minutes.

If you bake in loaf pans, paint the loaves with warm water, place in the hot oven, and immediately turn the heat down to 350°F. Bake for nearly an hour.

Slightly Sourdough

2 teaspoons active dry yeast (¼ oz or 7 g)

1 cup warm water (235 ml)

1 ½ cups sourdough starter (375 ml)

5 cups whole wheat bread flour (750 g)

½ cup additional warm water, more or less (120 ml)

poppy seeds

We tried making this bread in two versions: without salt, and with a teaspoonful per loaf. We tested it on friends who like to go light on the salt, and to our surprise they all preferred it saltless. In their opinion, if you add salt to this bread you detract from the earthy, whole-grain flavor.

If you do not have a sourdough starter already, it takes a few days to make one; follow the recipe for Manuel’s Rye Sour. The day ahead, bring the starter out of the refrigerator, double it, and let it bubble up in a warm place. Measure out the 1 ½ cups and return the rest to the refrigerator.

Dissolve