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By Root 726 0

50° and 65°F to keep the desem. This has been the hardest requirement for many people to meet, but temperature really is critical to growing the right organisms in the starter. Above 70°F souring organisms are favored; below 50°F the leavening organisms hibernate. The first time we started a desem it was August, hot inside the house and out. We took the thermometer from our refrigerator and walked all around the house and yard, finally settling on a spot under the house; it was too cold at night so for the first week, we took the desem in at night and out again every morning. It worked.

In the winter a garage or porch that is unheated during the day may be ideal, or sometimes the back corner of a low cupboard has a cool, steady temperature. Spring and autumn may be better for making a desem if the weather is extreme in your area. If you aren’t sure, a thermometer is worth getting.

TIME

It takes two weeks to develop a desem. During this period, to help the new starter get going, you need to feed it every day with a small portion of fresh flour and water. You can use your desem to bake with after the first week. Even when the desem is very young, the bread is delicious; in fact, in some ways the flavor is most interesting at this stage.

Making the Desem Starter Dough

10 pounds or more of organic whole wheat flour (to surround the desem)

2 cups (300 g) coarse stone-ground flour to go into the desem (can be part of the 10 pounds)

½ to ¾ cup unchlorinated water (120 to 175 ml) at room temperature, about 65 to 70°F

FIRST DAY: SATURDAY, FOR EXAMPLE

Put your ten pounds of flour in a container that is more or less as deep as it is wide. A very strong brown paper bag of the proper dimensions, an 8 quart bowl, or a bucket all work well.

Take about 2 cups of flour and mix it with ½ cup of water. Add more water (or flour) if necessary to make a dough ball that is stiff but not an absolute brick. Knead it for a few minutes, make it smoothly round, and bury it in the flour. It should be completely surrounded by flour at least three or four inches in every direction. Smooth the top of the flour, and cover the container to keep out insects and other intruders. Store at between 50° to 65°F, not over 70°F at any time, for about 48 hours.

SECOND DAY: SUNDAY

Maintain the temperature—no need to disturb it today.

THIRD DAY: MONDAY

The top surface of the flour may show a split or crack. Things are happening! Dig out the dough ball and, if there is a dry crust, cut it away with a sharp knife. Then cut away enough more so you’re left with half the amount you started with. If no skin has formed, just cut the ball in half—keep one half and throw the other away.

You now have half a ball of the dough. With clean hands slowly work ¼ cup of pure water into the dough to soften it. Knead in one cup of flour and add more water or flour as necessary to restore the ball to its original size and stiffness. Knead it smooth, round it, and bury it again in the container of flour. Smooth and cover the flour, this time for 24 hours at the same cool temperature.

FOURTH DAY: TUESDAY

Repeat what you did yesterday. By now the desem should have a slight fragrance of fermentation to it—fresh—a little like sprouting wheat. If yours doesn’t have this aroma, make it somewhat softer this time by adding a little more water.

FIFTH DAY: WEDNESDAY

Repeat what you did yesterday.

SIXTH DAY: THURSDAY

Today, instead of discarding half the desem, soften the whole thing with ⅓ cup of water. Add 1 cup of flour. Add more water or flour as necessary to get the usual consistency. This time do not bury the ball but store it in a closed, nonmetal container. A glazed crock is perfect, but a glass or plastic container will work also. Just make sure there’s room for the desem to expand a little. If the container is glass, the lid should not fit airtight.

SEVENTH DAY: FRIDAY

Soften the entire desem with ⅓ cup water and add 1 cup flour to it. Adjust the consistency so that you have a medium stiff dough—slightly softer than on the previous days. Knead about 10