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PROOFING

Let rise in a warm, humid place, 95°F, being careful not to expose the rolls to drafts. They should have a full proof. Since they are smaller than a loaf of bread and well-supported, they won’t fall and can tolerate a much fuller proof than loaf bread can, and still rise in the oven.

BAKING

A most annoying problem in baking rolls is to have them get too hard on the bottom from uneven heat in the oven. Most often you can avoid this by using thick, shiny pans and not putting them on the bottom rack. Also helpful is to protect the rolls by putting a second baking sheet underneath the one the rolls are on. Be sure to take a peek after about 15 minutes so that you can reverse or rotate the pans if necessary (or maybe even take the rolls out, if they have baked in that short time).

The object is to have the rolls brown nicely without drying out. The two-ounce rolls we have described will bake in about 20 minutes in a preheated 400°F oven, but especially if they are exceptionally light, they may be ready sooner, so keep an eye on them. Smaller rolls, or fancy shapes that are spread out on their baking sheet, also take less time—and a slightly higher oven heat as well. The bigger the roll, the longer the bake and the lower the temperature.

Making Fancy Shapes

For other shapes, follow the suggestions for washing and buttering the crusts that were given above. We don’t use the egg wash on fancy shapes, as a general rule, just brush them with butter; if they are fragile, brush them only after baking.

THINGS TO WATCH

Small, thin parts bake more quickly than thick parts; keep the sizes even for each roll and pan of rolls so you can avoid burning part while trying to get the rest cooked through. When baking a great artistic masterpiece worked in dough or little creatures shaped by a child, tiny parts can be protected to some extent by foil once they are brown.

Be careful, whatever the nature of your rolls, not to overbake them. Overbaking is the easiest pitfall with rolls, and what a pity to ruin them at the last, after all that work.

CLOVERLEAF The simplest and maybe the most surefire. Grease a muffin tin and into each cup drop three smooth one-inch balls of dough. These can be decorated with poppy or sesame seeds.

FAN-TANS Probably too rich for anyone’s good. Roll the dough thin (⅜ inch), brush with softened butter, and cut into 1 ¾-inch strips. Pile the strips on top of each other about 5 high and cut into squares. Place on edge in muffin pans. When they have risen, they will be the shape of a muffin with the shadow of five buttery slices. This one is tricky, but even if they aren’t perfect, they will be gone in no time. Chill dough before shaping if you’re serious about elegant results.

The following shapes start with a snake of dough. For the smoothest snakes and the best final results, begin with a ball of dough larger than a golf ball and smaller than a tennis ball. Roll it on a lightly floured board under first one and then both palms, working from the center outward to the ends, over and over. Don’t let the dough fold or twist, and try not to let it dry out or tear, either.

BOWKNOTS Roll each portion of dough into a smooth snake about ¾ inch thick and about 10 inches long. Flour the board to keep the dough from sticking to itself. Tie in a simple knot, loosely, and place on a greased sheet. Fast, easy, and pretty.

SNAILS Roll the snake into a pinwheel.

BRAIDS Use the method to make a tidy braid out of one snake about 18 inches long, or braid three thin strands and tuck the ends under.

PALMLEAF Roll the 18-inch snake halfway, and begin from the other end to meet halfway. This is traditional, but I can’t imagine why they call them palmleaves. (In New York, they’re called butterflies—a little more descriptive.)

Use your imagination. Any shape is viable so long as there is not too much difference between the thin part and the thick part.

Breadsticks, etc.

If you can give up a small wad of your dough when you are shaping, any kid from the toddler stage on up will