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The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern_ Knockout Dishes With Down-Home Flavor - Matt Lee [49]

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and rack inside the pan, put the cauliflower pieces on the rack, and partially cover. If using a conventional roasting pan and rack, wrap the rack in aluminum foil and place it in the pan, layer the florets on the rack, and cover it with aluminum foil, crimping the edges tightly, but leaving one corner uncrimped.

3 Turn the burner to low and center the pan above it. When you see the first wisp of smoke rise from the smoker or pan, cover it completely and continue to smoke for just 3 minutes. Transfer the cauliflower to the bowl of a food processor or blender, add the buttermilk and the butter, and process until the mixture is a smooth puree. Transfer the cauliflower to a serving bowl and season to taste with salt and black pepper.

ROASTED ZUCCHINI WITH TOASTED PECANS AND LEMON

serves 4 • TIME: 25 minutes

Zucchini become so abundant in late summer you can’t give them away. But we’ve learned a number of stellar ways to eat zucchini: we pickle them with onions to make a superb condiment and side dish (see Zucchini and Onion Pickles); we slice them thinly lengthwise and throw them on the grill; and we roast them to make this simple, crowd-pleasing side dish.

3 pounds green zucchini (about 4 large or 9 small)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

½ cup crushed pecans

1½ tablespoons walnut oil

Grated zest and juice of 1 large lemon

Maldon salt (see Notes on Finishing)

1 Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack positioned in the middle of the oven.

2 Cut the zucchini in half lengthwise, and then cut the halves lengthwise in thirds, so that each zucchini yields 6 slender wedges of roughly equal size. Slice these crosswise into 2-inch pieces.

3 Place the zucchini in a large rimmed baking sheet and add 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil, 1½ teaspoons of the white wine vinegar, ¾ teaspoon of the salt, and the black pepper. Toss to combine. Arrange the zucchini, skin side down, on the sheet and roast 15 to 20 minutes for small zucchini (25 to 30 minutes for large ones), or until just beginning to brown. Place the pecans on a separate baking dish or small cookie sheet, and toast for the last 3 to 4 minutes of cooking time. The pecans will be done when fragrant and gently browned.

4 While the zucchini roast, whisk the walnut oil, 1½ tablespoons of the lemon juice, the remaining 1½ tablespoons olive oil, the remaining 1½ teaspoons vinegar, and the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt in a large bowl.

5 Add the zucchini to the dressing and toss to coat. (If you have time, let it marinate for 15 to 20 minutes, tossing it every 5 minutes or so.) Transfer the zucchini to a serving platter, scatter the pecans and lemon zest over the top, drizzle dressing from the bowl over the top, and sprinkle with Maldon salt.

SKIRT STEAK WITH PARSLEY SAUCE

The main dish is often what sets dinner in motion. It’s the romance in the meal, the interesting protein or culinary idea that propels us into the kitchen instead of toward the take-out counter.

It could begin with a glance at a plump, glisteningly white chicken at the farmers market, an exquisite ingredient that called out to us above the din. Other times, with no prompting at all, a craving (Butterbeans! Burgers! Crispy salmon skin!) hits. And appetizing recipes we read about in cookbooks and magazines are frequently motivational.

Once the main dish has been decided, the ideas for sides begin to unspool, kindled by recent experiences or tastes, things read or witnessed: a magazine article about a journey in southern India might inspire us to think of seasoning that chicken with cinnamon and cardamom; a container of leftover cheese grits in the door of the refrigerator might launch us toward a fried-grits-cake accompaniment. This is how dinner is negotiated most nights, as a collaboration between what we have on hand and what we want from the local store.

Whatever the circumstances, the best-designed main dishes (and most of the ones included

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