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the curly-leaf variety. But we tend always to buy flat-leaf parsley because we believe that (a) the enfolded leaves of curly-leaf parsley tend to trap dirt, requiring more vigor to clean them, (b) the prickly mouth-feel of curly-leaf parsley tends to mute parsley’s wondrous and unique flavor, which is like the aroma of tomato plants growing in the hot late-summer sun, (c) curly-leaf parsley reminds us of rote plate garnishes that aren’t really meant to be eaten, served at restaurants that aren’t really trying. There. We’ve said it. We hate curly-leaf parsley.

CAESAR SALAD WITH CATFISH “CROUTONS”

serves 4 • TIME: 30 minutes

As coastal dwellers, we have so many saltwater delicacies in our markets—wreckfish, triggerfish, flounder—that we never really messed with freshwater creatures until we experienced catfish nirvana at the Taylor Grocery and Restaurant. Taylor, Mississippi, a dogleg in the road 8 miles southwest of Oxford, is the kind of place where you can end up in a pottery studio, two art galleries, and on the mayor’s porch drinking bourbon in the 20 minutes or so it takes to get a table at the “Grocery.” When you sit down inside the former railroad depot, you’re served some of the best fried catfish on earth: a crispy-nutty-salty crust enveloping meltingly tender fish. “Eat or We Both Starve” is their motto.

With this recipe, we bring some Taylor mojo to the ubiquitous Chicken Caesar found on the menu of almost every casual restaurant, replacing the often insipid grilled chicken with nuggets of cornmeal-battered fried catfish. In fact, do this right now: call up some friends you haven’t seen in a while and invite them for dinner tonight. Make this salad along with a bowl of Creamy Sweet-Onion Soup. These easy comforts, especially on a gloomy fall Wednesday, will light up the night.

CATFISH CROUTONS

1 pound catfish fillets (about 3 fillets), cut into 1-inch chunks

⅓ cup whole or lowfat buttermilk

½ cup sifted all-purpose flour

¼ cup white or yellow fine stone-ground cornmeal

2½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups peanut oil

CAESAR SALAD

1 large head romaine lettuce, sliced crosswise into ¾-inch-wide strips

⅓ cup whole or lowfat buttermilk (preferably whole)

2 tablespoons high-quality store-bought mayonnaise, such as Hellmann’s or Duke’s

2 anchovy fillets, minced, or ½ teaspoon anchovy paste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 clove garlic, finely grated

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 Put the catfish pieces in a medium bowl, pour the buttermilk over them, and toss to coat. Pour the flour, cornmeal, salt, and black pepper into a gallon-size locking food storage bag, and shake it around to combine. Lift the catfish pieces from the buttermilk, place them in the bag, and turn the bag gently in your hands until the pieces are covered in the dredge.

2 Heat the oil in a large deep skillet until it reads 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Using a wide slotted spoon or a skimmer, transfer a batch of the catfish pieces to the hot oil. Fry the fish in batches, taking care not to crowd the skillet, turning the pieces once as they become golden-brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the fried catfish to a plate lined with a paper towel.

3 Put the lettuce in a large salad bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk, mayonnaise, anchovies, lemon juice, garlic, and salt together. Pour the dressing over the greens and toss with tongs to coat evenly.

4 Divide the salad among 4 luncheon plates or salad bowls, and then scatter the catfish croutons on top of the greens. Serve immediately.

NOTE If you happen not to be a catfish fancier, any firm, sweet white-fleshed fish that holds up to frying—whiting, tilapia, and cod are others—works perfectly in this recipe.

garnish it rich

•••

Using a chef’s knife or a cheese slicer, shave a salty, firm Italian cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano into pieces as large and as paper-thin as you can make them, and arrange them over the salad. (Pecorino Romano is not as fruity or mellow-tasting