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1 tablespoon jasmine rice or another long-grain rice

Coarse salt

1 pound ground chicken

Lime-Chile Dressing (recipe follows)

¼ cup chopped fresh Thai basil, plus more for garnish

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish

Freshly ground pepper

1 head Boston lettuce, leaves separated

1 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks

½ daikon radish, peeled and cut into matchsticks

3 tablespoons salted, roasted peanuts, chopped

1. Toast the rice in a dry nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until deep golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Coarsely grind with a mortar and pestle or in a food processor.

2. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil; add 1 tablespoon salt. Boil the chicken, separating it into pieces with a spoon, until cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Transfer the chicken to a medium bowl with a slotted spoon; reserve ¼ cup cooking liquid. Add the dressing, rice, herbs, and cooking liquid; toss. Season with salt and pepper.

4. For each serving, put about ¼ cup chicken in a lettuce leaf. Garnish with carrot, daikon, basil, cilantro, and nuts.

lime-chile dressing

MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP

5 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

2 tablespoons rice-wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

2 fresh red hot chiles, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

Stir together all ingredients except the cilantro, and let stand at least 15 minutes (and up to a day in the refrigerator). When ready to serve, stir in the cilantro.

rice salad with rock shrimp and asparagus

SERVES 4

Rock shrimp are small and a bit sweet. You can also use small regular shrimp.

Coarse salt

1 bunch asparagus (about 1 pound), trimmed

1 cup jasmine rice

1½ teaspoons toasted sesame chile oil

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 pound rock shrimp, peeled

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground pepper

½ cup sliced almonds, toasted

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest

1. Prepare an ice-water bath; set aside. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil; add a large pinch of salt. Blanch the asparagus until bright green and tender, about 3 minutes. Immediately transfer with tongs to the ice-water bath to stop the cooking. Drain well; pat dry. Cut the spears on the diagonal into thin pieces; set aside.

2. Bring the rice and 1½ cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cover, and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 10 minutes; set aside.

3. Heat the sesame and olive oils in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the shrimp; stir to coat. Stir in the lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper; cook until the shrimp are pink and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Stir the shrimp, rice, asparagus, and almonds in a large bowl. Garnish with lemon zest.

smoked mackerel, cucumber, and potato salad with mustard dressing

SERVES 4

Although fresh mackerel can be hard to find, smoked mackerel is often sold in the refrigerated section of supermarkets; it is also available from mail-order sources. We used the peppered variety, but any type will do.

¾ pound small waxy potatoes, such as fingerling or new potatoes

1 small shallot, very thinly sliced

4 teaspoons white-wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

4 teaspoons olive oil

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh dill

½ cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced into ½-inch half-moons

Freshly ground pepper

12 ounces smoked mackerel, broken into bite-size pieces

Handful of tender salad greens, such as arugula, watercress, or tatsoi

1. Place the potatoes in a small saucepan, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer until tender when pierced with a fork, about 12 minutes. Drain in a colander; let cool slightly. Slip off the skins; discard. Cut the potatoes into halves or quarters, if desired.

2. Meanwhile, make the dressing: In a medium bowl, combine the shallot, vinegar, and