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2. Cut 1 inch from the top of each pita to open the pocket. Fill each with egg salad, dividing evenly. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to serve, up to 4 hours.

shrimp and chive rolls

MAKES 12

2 pounds (about 60) small shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 ounces rice vermicelli

¼ cup fresh lime juice (2 limes)

2 tablespoons sesame oil

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

12 8½-inch rice-paper wrappers

½ seedless cucumber, cut into matchsticks

½ pound (about 2 cups) bean sprouts

1 bunch fresh chives, ends trimmed

1 head Boston lettuce, washed

1 bunch fresh mint

1 bunch fresh cilantro

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Add the cleaned shrimp; poach until pink and cooked through, about 2 minutes. Slice 12 cooked shrimp in half lengthwise. Set aside.

2. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Cook the vermicelli until softened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; drain. Transfer to a bowl. Add the lime juice, sesame oil, and salt; toss. Set aside.

3. Dip a rice-paper wrapper into a bowl of warm water for 5 seconds; transfer to a clean work surface (the wrapper will still feel hard but will soften as it sits). Lay ¼ cup vermicelli on the bottom third of the rice paper; top with about 4 uncut shrimp and some cucumber and bean sprouts. Roll halfway, tucking in the ends. Place the chives and 2 shrimp halves on the roll; continue to roll so the chives and shrimp are enclosed but still showing through the rice paper.

4. Place the finished roll on a plate; cover with a damp paper towel. Continue filling and rolling rice papers until all ingredients are used. Serve with lettuce, mint, and cilantro on the side.

fried egg–topped sandwiches

MAKES 4

8 slices good-quality white bread

4 ounces fontina, Gruyère, or mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons fresh oregano, roughly chopped, plus more for garnish

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons milk

6 large eggs

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Cut the bread into 8 rounds with a 3¾-inch cookie cutter. Top half with a few slices of cheese; sprinkle with oregano, salt, and pepper. Top with the remaining bread rounds; press gently to adhere.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the milk and 2 eggs. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Dip the sandwiches, one at a time, into the egg mixture, letting the excess drip back into the bowl; transfer to the skillet. Cook until golden and the cheese has melted, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to serving plates.

3. Wipe the skillet with a paper towel. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Crack the remaining 4 eggs into the skillet, one at a time. Fry until the whites are just set, about 2 minutes. Carefully place an egg on each sandwich. Season with salt and pepper; garnish with oregano, and serve.

croque monsieur

MAKES 4

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for spreading, room temperature

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

½ teaspoon coarse salt

Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

8 slices rustic French or firm white sandwich bread

¼ cup Dijon or whole-grain mustard

½ pound cooked ham, thinly sliced

1/3 pound Gruyère cheese, thinly sliced, plus 1 cup freshly grated (about 2 ounces)

1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat until just starting to bubble. Add the flour, and cook, whisking constantly, until smooth but not browned, about 3 minutes.

2. Whisking constantly, slowly add the milk; continue cooking while whisking until mixture has thickened, about 3 minutes more. Remove from heat, and add salt, nutmeg, cayenne, and black pepper. Transfer to a bowl; place plastic wrap directly on surface of sauce, and set aside.

3. Heat the broiler. Heat a griddle or large cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat. Smear one side of bread slices with mustard. Top 4 slices with a layer each of ham and cheese; cover with the remaining 4 bread