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½ cup chopped shallots (about 3)

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh sage, plus 24 whole sage leaves for garnish

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Pinch of ground nutmeg

½ cup semolina, for dusting

Fresh Pasta Dough (Pasta, Rice, and Grains)

All-purpose flour, for dusting

¼ cup olive oil

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish (2 ounces)

1. In a small saucepan, cook the squash puree over medium heat, stirring frequently, until it stops releasing moisture and is reduced to 1¼ cups, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl to cool.

2. In a small saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the shallots; cook, stirring, until soft and beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chopped sage; cook, stirring, 1 minute more. Remove from heat; combine with the squash. Season with salt and pepper; stir in the nutmeg. Let cool completely.

3. Generously dust 2 baking sheets with semolina; set aside. Divide the pasta dough into 4 pieces; cover the unused pieces with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out. Dust a piece of dough lightly with flour. Using a pasta maker, roll the dough through the widest opening. Fold the dough into thirds, and pass it through machine again, layered side first. Repeat process three or four more times, until the dough is smooth. Continue running the dough through the remaining settings, using additional flour sparingly, until the pasta sheet is very thin. The dough should be at least 5 inches wide.

4. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface; halve crosswise. Cover half with plastic wrap. On the other half, place scant tablespoons of squash filling 1 inch apart in 2 rows. Using a pastry brush dipped in water, lightly moisten the pasta around each mound of filling. Top with the remaining half-sheet of pasta; press around the mounds to eliminate the air inside and to seal. Cut the pasta into 2½-inch squares. Brush away excess flour. Place the ravioli on the prepared baking sheets. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.

5. In a small saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Drop a few sage leaves at a time into the hot oil, and fry until the oil around the leaves stops bubbling but before the leaves brown, about 5 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper-towel–lined plate; set aside.

6. Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil. Add salt and the ravioli. Gently stir once, and cook at a gentle boil until the ravioli have floated to the top and are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, divide evenly among 4 plates.

7. In a small saucepan, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat, and cook until lightly browned and aroma is nutty, 6 to 8 minutes. Drizzle over the ravioli, and garnish with cheese and fried sage leaves. Serve immediately.

roasted squash puree

MAKES ABOUT 2¼ CUPS

3 pounds squash, such as butternut, orange Hokkaido, or buttercup, halved and seeded

Canola oil, for baking sheet

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the squash halves, skin side up, on an oiled rimmed baking sheet. Bake until fork tender, about 1¼ hours. Remove from the oven. Turn over; let stand until cool enough to handle.

2. Scoop the flesh into a food processor, and discard the skin. Puree until smooth. Refrigerate the squash puree in an airtight container up to 4 days, or store in the freezer up to 1 month.

pasta with peas, crab, and basil

SERVES 6 TO 8

Pappardelle are long, flat, wide noodles; fettuccine or linguine work just as well. We recommend chopping the peas slightly before cooking them; otherwise, they have a tendency to roll off the pasta when you eat.

Coarse salt

1 pound pappardelle

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, minced

2 pounds garden peas, shelled and roughly chopped (2 cups)

Freshly ground pepper

1 pound lump crabmeat, rinsed and picked over

1 cup heavy cream

¼ cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped, plus more for garnish

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil, and generously add salt. Stir in the pasta; cook according to package instructions