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2 medium onions, thinly sliced

½ teaspoon coarse salt

1 pound double-smoked bacon, cut into 1-inch-thick slices

½ pound fresh bacon or salt pork (in 1 piece)

1¼ pounds smoked pork butt, sliced crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces

4 pounds fresh sauerkraut, rinsed and drained

1 bottle (750 ml) dry Riesling

8 medium red or Yukon Gold potatoes, or a combination (about 1½ pounds total), peeled if desired

8 small carrots, peeled

3 coarse-textured smoked pork sausages, such as Hungarian kielbasa, bauerwurst, or smoked bratwurst (12 ounces total)

3 fine-textured pork-and-beef sausages, such as knockwurst or frankfurters (12 ounces total)

3 mild-spiced fine-textured white veal-and-pork sausages, such as weisswurst or bockwurst (12 ounces total)

Fresh parsley sprigs, for garnish

Variety of mustards, for serving

1. Make a spice bundle: Place spices, bay leaves, and garlic on a square of cheesecloth; tie into a bundle with kitchen twine.

2. Heat oil in a very large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add bacon, pork butt, and spice bundle. Cover with sauerkraut. Add wine and enough water to come 1 inch below sauerkraut. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cover, and simmer 45 minutes.

3. Add potatoes and carrots. Cover; cook until almost tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Using a skewer or the tip of a paring knife, poke a few holes into each sausage to prevent them from bursting. Place kielbasa in a dry skillet over medium heat. Cook, turning often, until browned, about 8 minutes. Put all sausages into the Dutch oven. Cover; cook until heated through, about 15 minutes.

5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausages and vegetables to a plate. Drain sauerkraut, and arrange on a serving platter. Arrange sausages and vegetables on top. Garnish with parsley; serve with mustards.

crispy pork-stuffed anaheim chiles

SERVES 4 TO 6

4 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut in 2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon coarse salt

12 large Anaheim chiles

12 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, grated (about 3½ cups)

Quick Purple Tomatillo Sauce (recipe follows)

Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish

Flour tortillas, warmed, for serving

1. Place pork in a large, heavy pot. Sprinkle with salt. Add water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pork is brown, about 1½ hours (when water has evaporated, pork will brown in its fat). Set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place chiles directly over the flame of a gas-stove burner on high heat. Roast, turning with tongs, until blackened all over. (Alternatively, broil chiles on a baking sheet, turning, until skin has charred.) Transfer chiles to a large bowl, and cover immediately with plastic wrap. Set aside to steam, about 15 minutes. Peel chiles; discard skins. With stems intact, slit each chile lengthwise; carefully remove seeds and veins. Place, slit side up, on a baking sheet.

3. Spread 2 tablespoons cheese in bottom of each chile, then fill with 1/3 cup pork. Sprinkle chiles with the remaining 2 cups cheese. Spoon 1 tablespoon tomatillo sauce over top of each chile. Bake 15 minutes. Garnish with cilantro; serve with tortillas and remaining tomatillo sauce.

quick purple tomatillo sauce

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

10 small purple or green tomatillos (about 10 ounces total), husked and washed

½ small onion, coarsely chopped

2 jalapeño peppers, coarsely chopped

6 sprigs fresh cilantro, leaves only

1½ teaspoons coarse salt

1. Put the tomatillos in a medium saucepan; cover with water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook 4 minutes. Drain, reserving ½ cup cooking liquid.

2. Process tomatillos, onion, jalapeños, cilantro, salt, and ¼ cup liquid in a blender until a slightly chunky sauce forms, adding more liquid as needed. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 3 days.

sautéed pork cutlets

SERVES 4

8 pork cutlets (3 ounces each)

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground