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2. Set over medium-high heat, and bring the water to a boil. Reduce heat, and allow to simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, for 1 hour.

3. Remove the chicken from the stock; set aside. Strain the stock through a very fine sieve or chinois. Discard the solids. Transfer the stock to a metal bowl. Set the bowl in another bowl, full of ice water. Let stand until the stock is completely chilled, replacing the ice if necessary, and fat can be skimmed off the surface of the stock.

4. Meanwhile, when the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Carefully pull the meat off the bones (it should fall away quite easily), keeping it in large chunks when possible.

5. Return 5 cups stock to the stockpot or a large saucepan. Bring to a boil; adjust the seasoning with salt. Reduce heat to a simmer; simmer until stock has become very flavorful and reduced by 1 cup, about 15 minutes. Add the pieces of chicken; cook just until heated through, about 5 minutes.

6. Toast the bread until golden, and brush with the olive oil. Serve the chicken in a wide bowl with a ladle of hot broth. Add a handful of watercress to each bowl. Place a spoonful of mustard on toast, sprinkle with salt, and serve on the side.

grilled chicken paillards with endive and radicchio

SERVES 6

3 whole boneless, skinless chicken breasts, split (about 2 pounds)

Basic Marinade (Basics)

3 heads Belgian endive, halved lengthwise

2 large heads radicchio, each cut in 6 wedges

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

3 lemons, cut in half crosswise

Rosemary sprigs, for garnish

Thyme sprigs, for garnish

1. Cut open two sides of a resealable plastic bag. Place 1 chicken breast half in the bag; pound to ¼-inch thickness using a meat pounder. Transfer to a nonmetal container. Repeat with the remaining chicken. Add the marinade. Chill for 2 hours.

2. Brush the endive and radicchio with the olive oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper; set aside. Brush the cut sides of the lemons with olive oil.

3. Heat a grill or grill pan. Remove the chicken from the marinade; grill until browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a serving platter.

4. Grill the endive, radicchio, and lemons until nicely browned, about 3 minutes; turn as needed. Serve on the platter with the chicken, garnished with rosemary and thyme.

barbecued chicken kabobs with potatoes and summer squash

MAKES 8

The potatoes must be parboiled so they will be done at the same time as the chicken.

1½ chicken breasts (3 halves), cut into 1-inch cubes

2 cups Barbecue Sauce (Poultry), or good-quality store-bought

1 cup water

1½ tablespoons coarse salt

1¼ pounds new or baby fingerling potatoes

¾ pound green or yellow summer squash (about 2), cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1. Place the chicken in a large bowl. Add the barbecue sauce; toss. Cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

2. Place the water in a large saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon salt and the potatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat; simmer until the potatoes are almost tender when pierced with a knife, about 10 minutes. Do not overcook. Drain; halve. Set aside.

3. Thread 4 cubes of chicken, alternating with potatoes and squash, on each of 8 skewers. Gently brush the vegetables with some oil. Season with the remaining ½ tablespoon salt and the pepper.

4. Arrange the skewers, off direct heat, on a medium-hot grill. Grill, rotating the skewers and brushing with olive oil as necessary to prevent sticking, until cooked through, about 12 minutes depending on the heat of the grill. The vegetables should be soft and slightly charred.

chicken enchiladas

SERVES 6 TO 8

These can be made up to 1 day ahead or frozen up to 1 month ahead. Bring to room temperature before baking.

1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)

2 quarts homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil