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1¾ pounds wild striped bass fillets (each 1 to 1½ inches thick)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Remove the stalks from the fennel bulbs; reserve the bulbs for another use. Remove the feathery fronds from the stalks, and reserve for garnish. Using a sharp knife, halve the stalks lengthwise. Arrange the stalks in the bottom of a 9 × 13-inch baking dish; pour the wine over the stalks. Lay the fish fillets on top; drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper.

2. Cover the pan tightly with foil. Roast until the fish is just cooked through and opaque throughout, 20 to 25 minutes. Divide the fish among serving plates, discarding the fennel stalks. Garnish with reserved fronds.

BUYING FRESH FISH

Steaks and fillets: These should smell fresh and have plump, moist flesh that is not discolored. Avoid any with flesh that appears dry and has sections that are separating.

Whole fish: Look for gills (just under the head) that are bright red, without any brown spots; eyes that are full and clean, not a discolored white or gray; and skin that is shiny, not dull. The flesh should be firm, and the odor should not be fishy.

grilled tuna with cherry tomato salad and herbed bulgur

SERVES 4

1 cup bulgur wheat

1½ teaspoons coarse salt

¼ cup loosely packed inner celery leaves, roughly chopped

¼ cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped

¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

½ pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half

2 scallions, thinly sliced into rounds

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the grill

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground pepper

4 tuna steaks (each 6 ounces and about 1 inch thick)

1. Bring 2 cups water to a boil. Place the bulgur in a large heatproof bowl; cover with the boiling water. Add ¼ teaspoon salt; stir just to combine, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let steam until tender but still slightly chewy, 22 to 25 minutes. If all the water has not been absorbed, drain the bulgur in a sieve, then return it to the dried bowl. Let cool. Using a fork, stir in the celery leaves, mint, cilantro, and coriander.

2. Make the cherry tomato salad: In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes and scallions with the oil, lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Season with pepper. Set aside.

3. Heat a lightly oiled grill or grill pan over medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of each tuna steak with about ¼ teaspoon salt; season evenly with pepper. Cook until the first side is seared with grill marks, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the tuna, and cook 3 minutes more for medium-rare. Serve with herbed bulgur on the side and cherry tomato salad spooned on top.

FIT TO EAT RECIPE PER SERVING: 340 CALORIES, 5 G FAT, 77 MG CHOLESTEROL, 31 G CARBOHYDRATE, 781 MG SODIUM, 45 G PROTEIN, 7 G FIBER

slow-roasted salmon with caper and herb relish

SERVES 4

4 skinless salmon fillets (6 ounces each)

1¼ teaspoons coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 small shallot, finely chopped

2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, preferably organic

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

2/3 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as tarragon, chervil, dill, and mint

1 bunch pencil-thin asparagus, tough ends snapped off

1. Preheat the oven to 250°F, with the rack in the upper third. Place the salmon on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle both sides of each fillet with ¼ teaspoon salt; season evenly with pepper. Bake until opaque but still bright pink in the middle, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven.

2. Meanwhile, make the relish: In a small bowl, stir together the shallot, capers, lemon zest and juice, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt; season with pepper. Add the oil, parsley, and mixed herbs; toss.

3. Place the asparagus in a steamer basket set over a pot of simmering water; steam until the spears are crisp-tender and bright green, 3 to 4 minutes. Divide the asparagus