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1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus sprigs for serving

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Set a wire rack on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour 1 cup water onto sheet; set aside. Using a small spoon, scoop out pulp from center of each zucchini, leaving a ¼-inch-thick shell. Transfer pulp to a kitchen towel, and squeeze out excess liquid. Coarsely chop pulp; set aside. Sprinkle zucchini shells with 1 teaspoon salt. Place shells, cut side down, on paper towels to drain.

2. Melt butter with oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallot, ginger, and jalapeño. Cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in 1½ teaspoons salt, the cumin, coriander, cinnamon, and saffron. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add zucchini pulp and chickpeas; cook, stirring occasionally, 2 minutes.

3. Stir in 1 cup water. Bring to a boil. Add couscous, and return to a boil. Reduce to a simmer. Cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has absorbed and couscous is tender, about 9 minutes. Remove from heat, and let stand, covered, 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and cilantro. Season with salt, if desired.

4. Wipe zucchini shells to remove any liquid. Lightly season with salt. Mound about ¼ cup filling into each zucchini shell. Transfer to prepared rack. Cover with foil, and bake until zucchini are tender and filling is heated through, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve with parsley, cilantro, and lemon.

tortilla española

SERVES 8 TO 12 AS HORS D’OEUVRES, 4 TO 6 AS A MAIN COURSE

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 medium russet potatoes (about 1¾ pounds total), peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices

1 medium onion, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

7 large eggs

1. Heat oil in a 10-inch nonstick slope-sided skillet or omelet pan over medium heat. Toss together potatoes, onion, and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Add to warm oil; cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, about 12 minutes (do not let the onion brown). Pour into a sieve set over a medium bowl; set oil aside.

2. Lightly beat eggs in a medium bowl with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add potato mixture, and let stand, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.

3. Heat 2 teaspoons reserved oil in clean skillet over medium heat. Add egg-and-potato mixture; cook, pulling cooked egg away from sides with a rubber spatula to let raw egg flow underneath, until bottom is set and just pale golden (and top is almost set), 5 to 7 minutes. Place a plate, upside down, over skillet (use a plate with a diameter larger than the skillet); invert tortilla onto the plate.

4. Add 1 teaspoon reserved oil to skillet; swirl to coat. Slide tortilla, uncooked side down, back into skillet. If any potatoes slip out from bottom, tuck them back in. Cook, pressing down on tortilla with spatula and tucking in edges to shape sides, until completely cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes more. Slide onto a cutting board. Let cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges.

side dishes

lighter mashed potatoes

SERVES 8

16 ounces small-curd low-fat cottage cheese

2 pounds small red potatoes, halved if large Coarse salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives, plus stems for garnish

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 tablespoons skim milk

1. Purée half of the cottage cheese in a blender; set aside. Cover potatoes with water by 1 inch in a medium saucepan. Add a large pinch of salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain.

2. Transfer potatoes to a large bowl. Add cottage cheese, pepper, chives, butter, and milk. Season with salt. Mash to desired consistency. Serve garnished with chives.

sautéed brussels sprouts with raisins

SERVES 4

Brussels sprouts are members of the cabbage family. They are in season from late August through March.

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

10 ounces Brussels sprouts (about 25), stems trimmed,