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2. Remove the cover; continue cooking until the liquid has evaporated and the vegetables are caramelized, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large serving platter, and garnish with fresh herbs.

white asparagus with hollandaise sauce

SERVES 6 TO 8

White asparagus spears are generally thicker than their green counterparts, so be sure to trim the tough ends of the stalk and cook until they are perfectly crisp-tender.

6 quarts water

3 tablespoons coarse salt

3 to 4 bunches (3 to 4 pounds) white asparagus, peeled and tough ends of stalks trimmed by 1 inch

Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)

Bring the water to a boil in a large stockpot, and add the salt. Place the asparagus spears in the water; cook just until tender, about 5 minutes. Gently transfer to a colander to drain, being careful not to damage the tips. Blot dry with paper towels, and arrange on a large serving platter. Serve warm with hollandaise sauce.

hollandaise sauce

MAKES 3 CUPS

Clarifying the butter is an easy and helpful way to achieve perfect hollandaise sauce.

2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter

6 large egg yolks

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons water

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Coarse salt

Cayenne pepper (optional)

1. Clarify the butter: Slowly melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, and skim off surface foam. Pour the clear layer of butter into a large glass measuring cup, leaving behind the milky residue, which can be discarded. Let the butter cool until it is lukewarm.

2. Meanwhile, place the egg yolks and wine in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Whisk vigorously until the mixture is very pale and the whisk leaves a trail, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat; continue whisking until the mixture is the same temperature as the butter, about 30 seconds.

3. Whisking constantly, add the butter to the egg mixture, 1 drop at a time at first and gradually increasing to a steady stream. When fully incorporated, stir in the water and lemon juice, and season with salt and cayenne pepper, if desired. Serve immediately, or keep warm over a pan of simmering water removed from heat.

sautéed chicory

SERVES 4

This is a quick and delicious side dish for any season, as chicory is available year-round. Radicchio, a red-leaf chicory, adds a contrasting bitter note as well as a splash of color.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped (optional)

1 head radicchio (about 10 ounces), trimmed and sliced into ½-inch pieces

1 bunch chicory (about 1½ pounds), trimmed and roughly chopped

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the anchovies, and cook 1 minute. Add the radicchio and chicory; sauté until slightly wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving platter, and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

fricassee of wild mushrooms

SERVES 4

14 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, tough ends of stems removed

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 garlic clove, minced

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

7 ounces blue foot or oyster mushrooms, tough ends of stems removed

1 teaspoon coarse salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 ounces black trumpet mushrooms

6 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

3 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil

1. Rinse the chanterelles quickly with cold water (do not soak) in a colander, and dry thoroughly on paper towels. Wipe the other mushrooms with a damp paper towel, or if necessary, rinse with cold water and dry well on paper towels.

2. In a large sauté pan, melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallot; cook until the shallot begins to soften, about 1 minute. Add blue foot mushrooms; cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms wilt, about 4 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.

3. Add the