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2. Transfer the spinach to a colander; rinse under cold water. Squeeze dry in a clean kitchen towel. Finely chop; set aside.

3. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the onions; cook until the skins soften, about 3 minutes. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon (reserve the water in the pot); rinse. Trim the root ends, and remove the skins. Halve the onions, if large. Return the onions to the cooking water. Cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain, and rinse.

4. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour, and whisk until smooth. Whisking constantly, pour in the milk in a slow, steady stream. Boil, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Remove from heat.

5. Melt the remaining tablespoon butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon; cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 6 minutes. Stir in the onions and spinach. Stir in the cream and reserved milk mixture. Add 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg. Cook, stirring, until heated through and thick, about 10 minutes (do not boil). Stir in the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

baked creamed salsify

SERVES 4 TO 6

¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (about 2 lemons)

2 pounds salsify

Coarse salt

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup heavy cream

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground pepper

¼ cup fresh bread crumbs, lightly toasted

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F, with the rack in the highest position. Fill a large bowl two-thirds full with cold water; add ¼ cup lemon juice. Trim the salsify, and peel with a vegetable peeler, transferring the salsify to lemon water as you work. Cut the salsify into 2-inch lengths; return to bowl. Drain.

2. Cover the salsify with cold water by 2 inches in a medium saucepan; add ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high. Cook until tender but not mushy, 10 to 15 minutes; drain.

3. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the salsify. Stir in the cream and remaining teaspoon lemon juice. Bring to a bare simmer; remove from heat. Add the nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper. Pour the salsify mixture into an 8-inch-square baking dish or 8-cup gratin dish. Sprinkle with the bread crumbs and cheese. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

roasted radishes with capers and anchovies

SERVES 4

12 ounces radishes (about 12), halved if large

2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and chopped

6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

½ lemon, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375°F, with a rack in the upper third. In a small roasting pan, toss together the radishes, capers, anchovies, garlic, and oil; season with salt and pepper. Spread out the mixture evenly. Roast, stirring once, until the radishes are shriveled and fragrant, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve warm with lemon.

roasted root vegetables with sage and garlic

SERVES 4 TO 6

8 ounces rutabagas, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes or half-moons

8 ounces turnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes or half-moons

8 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes or rounds

8 ounces parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes or rounds

8 fresh sage leaves

4 garlic cloves (do not peel)

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

4½ teaspoons olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss together all the ingredients; spread out in a roasting pan. Roast, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and tender, 50 to 60 minutes.

haricots verts with pecans and lemon

SERVES 4

Coarse salt

1 pound haricots verts or thin green beans, trimmed

½ cup pecans

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground pepper

¼ cup olive oil

1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil; add salt and the haricots verts. Cook the beans until bright