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4. Stir in the couscous, stock, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon thyme, and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Cover; reduce heat to low. Cook until the couscous is tender but al dente and the liquid is absorbed, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat. Let stand, covered, 2 minutes. Fluff with a fork.

5. Peel the squash; cut the flesh into ½-inch cubes. Stir together the couscous, vegetables, raisins, almonds, parsley, and remaining tablespoon thyme; season with salt and pepper. Serve, or immediately pack loosely in the turkey cavity, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the stuffing registers 165°F.

chestnut and sausage stuffing

SERVES 12; MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS (ENOUGH FOR ONE 16- TO 18-POUND TURKEY)

1 loaf day-old rustic Italian bread (about 1 pound), trimmed of crust and cut into ¾-inch cubes (about 8 cups)

1 pound fresh chestnuts

1 pound sweet Italian sausage

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped

4 celery stalks, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ cup dry white wine

½ cup homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

Unsalted butter, for baking dish

1. Let the bread cubes stand on a baking sheet at room temperature 3 hours to dry.

2. Lay each chestnut flat on a work surface, and cut an X in the pointed tip of the shell with a paring or chestnut knife. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Boil the chestnuts 2 minutes; remove the pot from the heat. Remove the chestnuts with a slotted spoon; peel away the shells. Quarter the nut-meat; transfer to a large bowl. Add the bread.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Split the sausages; scrape the meat into a large sauté pan set over medium heat; crumble with a fork. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Add the oil; swirl the pan. Add the onions, celery, and garlic. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft, 15 to 17 minutes. Add to the bread mixture.

4. Add the wine to the pan. Scraping up any brown bits from bottom with a wooden spoon, cook over medium heat until the wine is reduced by half. Add to the bread mixture.

5. Add the stock to the bread mixture; toss. Add the thyme, sage, and parsley. Add the salt, and season with pepper. Stir in the eggs.

6. To bake the stuffing: Place the stuffing in a buttered 9 × 13-inch baking dish; cover with foil. Bake 30 minutes; remove the foil. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. To cook in a turkey: Stuff as directed (Side Dishes). Place remaining 5 cups stuffing in a buttered 8-inch-square baking dish; bake as directed above.

STUFFING 101

Improvise, using the following formula, to come up with your own stuffing recipes.

BASIC INGREDIENTS

1 1-pound loaf bread (or 1½ pounds cornbread), preferably 1 day old

4 cups (2 pounds) chopped vegetables (for cooking)

1 cup fresh herbs, such as parsley, sage, and thyme

2 cups or less liquid (or 3 eggs or butter)

1 pound meat

Butter and/or olive oil

4 cups or less fruit, nuts, and more

3 tablespoons seasoning

VARIATIONS

Most stuffings have the same foundation: bread. Beyond that, combine complementary flavors, such as citrus rind and fruit juice, or those that contrast, like pecans and dried cherries. Use a variety of colors and textures, too. For best results, include plenty of vegetables, herbs, and spices.

VEGETABLES

These add nuance to the flavor of stuffing and can change its texture, depending on how they are cut and whether they are cooked before being added. Fennel gives a note of sweet anise; mushrooms yield earthy flavor and a meaty texture. Suggestions: onions, celery, carrots, fennel, mushrooms, and leeks.

HERBS AND SPICES

As you season, taste frequently, and adjust accordingly to get a result you like. Used