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Unsalted butter, for baking dish

4 large sweet potatoes (about 4 pounds), peeled and thinly sliced into rounds

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1½ cups grated Chihuahua or Monterey Jack cheese (6 ounces)

1½ cups Cotija or French feta cheese, crumbled (6 ounces)

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon finely chopped canned chipotle chile in adobo (optional)

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock, or water

¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 cup crushed tortilla chips

Lime wedges, for garnish

Mexican crema or sour cream, for garnish (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9 × 13-inch baking dish; set aside. Toss the potatoes with 1½ teaspoons salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Arrange half of the potatoes in the buttered dish, overlapping the slices. Sprinkle with half of each cheese. Top with onion.

2. Stir the chipotle (if desired) into the stock; drizzle over the onion. Sprinkle with half the cilantro. Top with the remaining potatoes; sprinkle with the remaining cheeses and cilantro. Scatter the chips on top.

3. Cover with foil; bake 30 minutes. Remove the foil; bake until very tender and top is well browned, about 30 minutes more. Let cool slightly before serving. Serve with limes, and with crema, if desired.

skillet sweet potatoes with wild mushrooms

SERVES 8 TO 10

1 ounce dried wild mushrooms, such as porcini (about 1 cup)

1 cup boiling water

2 tablespoons brandy

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Olive oil, for the skillet

6 sweet potatoes (about 5 pounds), peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick rounds

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Place the dried mushrooms in a small bowl; cover with boiling water. Let soak, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms; reserve 1/3 cup soaking liquid. Using paper towels, squeeze out excess water from the mushrooms; roughly chop, and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F, with the rack in the center. In a small bowl, whisk the brandy, 5 tablespoons butter, and reserved mushroom liquid. Rub a 9-inch seasoned cast-iron skillet with oil. Arrange one-quarter of the potatoes in a single layer on the bottom, overlapping slightly. Scatter one-third of the mushrooms over the potatoes, then drizzle with one-quarter of the brandy mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Repeat the layering two more times; top with the remaining potatoes and liquid; season with salt.

3. Cover the skillet tightly with foil. Bake until the potatoes are just fork-tender, about 35 minutes. Remove the foil, and brush the top with the remaining tablespoon butter. Continue baking until the potatoes are golden brown and tender, 25 to 30 minutes more. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

lemon and caper mashed potatoes

SERVES 4

To keep mashed potatoes warm for up to 2 hours, place them in a heatproof bowl over a pot filled with 3 inches of barely simmering water; cover to seal in the steam.

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup milk

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons capers, drained and coarsely chopped

¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan, and fill with enough water to cover the potatoes by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add a generous amount of salt; reduce heat to a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 15 minutes. Drain; using a potato masher or potato ricer, mash the potatoes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine 5 tablespoons butter and the milk, lemon juice, zest, and capers. Heat until the butter is melted and the mixture is warm to the touch.

3. Fold the milk mixture and the parsley into the mashed potatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Dot with the remaining tablespoon butter just before serving.

roasted baby potatoes with romesco sauce

SERVES 4

Romesco sauce, from the