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PITTING CHERRIES

To pit a cherry and keep the stem intact, reach for a clean paperclip. Unfold the clip at its center; depending on the size of the cherry, insert either the large or the small end of the paper clip through the bottom of the cherry. Loosen the pit and pull it out.

apricot-almond cobbler

SERVES 8

½ cup whole raw almonds

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1½ teaspoons baking powder

Salt

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ cup whole milk, room temperature

1 large egg, room temperature

2 tablespoons almond-flavored liqueur, such as amaretto

1½ pounds apricots, halved lengthwise, pitted, and cut into ¾-inch-thick wedges

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Toast the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet in the oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Finely grind the almonds in a food processor; transfer to a medium bowl. Whisk in the flour, ¾ cup sugar, the baking powder, ¾ teaspoon salt, and the nutmeg; set aside.

2. Brush a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with 2 tablespoons butter. Whisk together the remaining 4 tablespoons butter, milk, egg, and liqueur in a medium bowl. Stir the butter mixture into the flour mixture; spread evenly into the skillet.

3. Stir the apricots, remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, a pinch of salt, and the lemon juice in a medium bowl; spread evenly over the batter. Bake until a tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs, 50 to 60 minutes. Let cool in the skillet on a wire rack 1 hour before serving.

rhubarb-berry crumbles

SERVES 6

1½ pounds rhubarb, cut crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices, leaves discarded

2 cups raspberries or sliced strawberries, or a combination

1¼ cups sugar

2 tablespoons instant tapioca

½ teaspoon finely grated orange zest, plus 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

Pinch of salt

Crumble Topping (recipe follows)

Vanilla yogurt, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Stir together the rhubarb, berries, sugar, tapioca, orange zest, orange juice, and salt in a bowl. Let stand 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Divide the rhubarb mixture among 6 small ceramic baking dishes (1 cup capacity and 5½ inches in diameter). Transfer the baking dishes to a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Sprinkle with the topping, dividing evenly.

3. Bake until the topping turns golden and the juices are bubbling, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool on the sheet on a wire rack 30 minutes. Serve with yogurt, if desired.

crumble topping

MAKES ABOUT 1 ¾ CUPS

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

¼ cup packed light-brown sugar

¼ teaspoon finely grated orange zest (for Rhubarb-Berry Crumbles; optional)

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

Put the butter, brown sugar, and orange zest, if desired, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until creamy. Stir in the flour and salt. Work the mixture through your fingers until it forms coarse crumbs ranging in size from peas to gumballs.

mixed-berry grunt

SERVES 8

1 cup sugar

¼ teaspoon plus a pinch of ground cinnamon

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon baking powder

Salt

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

1/3 cup whole milk, room temperature

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

4 cups raspberries (about 1½ pints)

3 cups blackberries (about 1½ pints)

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Heavy cream, for drizzling

1. Stir together 2 tablespoons sugar and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon in a small bowl; set aside. Whisk together the flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, the baking powder, a pinch of salt, and the ginger in a medium bowl. Stir together the milk and butter in a small bowl. Stir the milk-butter mixture into the flour mixture. Set the batter aside.

2. Gently fold together the raspberries, blackberries, lemon juice, remaining ¾ cup sugar, a pinch of salt, the remaining pinch of cinnamon, and 2 tablespoons water