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7. Fit one of the cake layers in the bottom of each prepared loaf pan. Using a pastry brush, lightly moisten the top of the cake with rum. Using an offset spatula, evenly spread 1½ cups lemon filling over each. Repeat the process, making another layer of cake, rum, and filling; cover each with one of the remaining cake layers. Place in the freezer at least 5 hours or overnight.

8. Just before serving, remove the pans from the freezer, and turn the cakes out of the pans; remove the parchment paper. Slice into pieces.

vanilla sheet cake

MAKES ONE 9 × 13-INCH SHEET CAKE

Because there is no butter in the sponge cake, it will remain soft when frozen in the Lemon Semifreddo Cake.

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

4 large eggs, separated

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons boiling water

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 9 × 13-inch baking pan with parchment paper, and set aside. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder in a medium bowl.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat together the egg yolks and sugar on medium-low speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the water and vanilla bean scrapings. Add the dry ingredients in 3 batches, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed, just until the flour mixture is incorporated after each addition.

3. In another mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff but not until dry peaks form; whisk one-quarter of the egg whites into the batter to lighten. Fold in the remaining egg whites, and pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until the cake springs back when gently pressed in the center, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

plum-ginger granita

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS

1 piece (about 2 inches) peeled fresh ginger

2 pounds ripe red plums, halved, pitted, and coarsely chopped, plus thin wedges for garnish (about 9 plums total)

1 1/3 cups sugar

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Pulse ginger in a food processor until finely chopped; transfer to a large saucepan. Add plums, sugar, salt, and 5 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved and plums have broken down, about 15 minutes.

2. Pour plum mixture through a fine sieve into a 9 × 13-inch shallow nonreactive dish; discard solids. Stir in vanilla. Chill in freezer until edges are frozen, about 1½ hours.

3. Remove from freezer; scrape with fork tines, pulling from edges into center. Return to freezer. Repeat process every 30 minutes until mixture is the texture of shaved ice, about 4½ hours. Spoon into serving bowls; garnish with plums.

QUICK ICE CREAM TOPPINGS

A hot day is the perfect excuse for an impromptu ice cream party. Stock an assortment of cones, and make chocolate and caramel sauce ahead of time. To make caramel sauce, simply add cream, vanilla, lemon juice, and butter to hot sugar caramel. For a rich chocolate fudge sauce, melt bittersweet chocolate in heavy cream. Both of these sauces can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Quickly cooking some berries with a little sugar makes a delicious and simple fruit sauce for sundaes, too.

papaya sorbet

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS; SERVES 4

Use red-fleshed papayas, such as Sunrise Solo or Maradol. Be sure to ask your grocer which ones will have flesh with a rosy hue since a papaya’s skin and shape may not be a good indication of its interior color.

1/3 cup sugar

3 pounds fresh red papayas (about 1½ medium), peeled, halved, seeded, and chopped

½ cup fresh lime juice, plus thinly sliced rounds for garnish (3 to 4 limes total)

1 tablespoon honey

1. Bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sugar has dissolved and mixture is syrupy, about 4 minutes. Let cool completely.

2. Purée papayas, lime juice, and honey in a food processor. Transfer to