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2. Meanwhile, whisk the cream, sugar, egg yolks, salt, lemon zest, and nutmeg in a medium bowl. Pour the cream mixture into the rice mixture in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly. Return the pan to medium-high heat, and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Using a ladle, divide the rice mixture evenly among the buttered ramekins, stirring the mixture in the pan each time to ensure an even distribution of rice and liquid.

3. Transfer the ramekins to a large roasting pan or 2 baking dishes at least 2 inches deep. Slowly pour boiling water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Carefully place in the oven. Cook, rotating the pan halfway through, until the puddings are almost set and the tops are golden in places, 50 to 60 minutes. Carefully transfer the ramekins to a wire rack. Let cool 10 minutes before serving. The pudding can be stored in the refrigerator up to 1 day. Serve warm, cold, or at room temperature. Spoon the candied squash and its syrup on top of each pudding, dividing evenly; sprinkle with toasted walnuts.

candied butternut squash

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons orange marmalade

1/3 cup sugar

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Pinch of ground cloves

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 small butternut squash (about 1¾ pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1. Put the marmalade, sugar, ginger, vanilla bean, cloves, and lemon juice in a large, wide pot. Stir in 2½ cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the marmalade and sugar.

2. Add the squash, and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, and partially cover the pot. Gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until the squash is tender when pierced with a fork, about 35 minutes. Uncover, and cook until the liquid is syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean, and discard. Serve warm. The squash and syrup can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week. Before serving, reheat over medium-low heat. If the syrup seems too thick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water.

crème brûlée

MAKES FOUR 6-OUNCE SERVINGS

To produce the delightful hard surface that crackles when tapped with a spoon, you will need to brown the sugared tops with a small kitchen blowtorch, available at most specialty stores.

2 cups heavy cream

½ vanilla bean, split and scraped

½ cup sugar, plus 6 tablespoons for sprinkling

5 large egg yolks

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place 4 shallow oval 6-ounce ramekins in a large baking pan lined with a kitchen towel. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and keep hot until ready to use.

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the cream, vanilla bean, and scrapings over medium heat until bubbles form around the edges and the mixture starts to steam, about 6 minutes. Turn off heat.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together ½ cup sugar and the egg yolks until combined. Whisking constantly, slowly add the hot cream mixture. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean bowl; skim off any surface foam with a spoon.

4. Pour the custard into the ramekins. Carefully pour the hot water into the baking pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custard is just set in the center when gently touched with your finger, about 35 minutes. Transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool. Cover with plastic wrap, and place in refrigerator to chill completely, 2 to 3 hours or overnight.

5. Transfer to the freezer 45 minutes before serving. Remove from the freezer, and sprinkle 1½ tablespoons sugar over the entire surface of each. Using a kitchen torch, pass the flame in a circular motion 1 to 2 inches above the surface until the sugar bubbles, turns amber, and forms a smooth surface. Serve immediately.

coffee crème brûlée

MAKES 5

Wide and shallow 9-ounce molds are perfect for crème brûlée because they provide