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4. Reduce speed to low. Pour in the melted chocolate in a slow, steady stream; mix until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer; scrape down the sides (batter will be thick). Stir until combined.

5. Divide the batter among the pans, smoothing the tops with an offset spatula. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the centers comes out with moist crumbs, 35 to 40 minutes.

6. Let the cakes cool in the pans on wire racks 30 minutes. Unmold the cakes; peel off the parchment. Let the cakes cool completely.

7. Trim the tops of the cakes with a long serrated knife to make the surfaces level. Using a ruler to measure halfway up the sides of 1 cake, insert toothpicks around the cake’s middle at 3-inch intervals to mark 2 equal layers. Rest the serrated knife on the toothpicks; halve the cake horizontally using a sawing motion. Carefully slide the top cake half onto a cardboard cake round or a plate. Repeat with the remaining 2 cakes.

8. Put 1 bottom cake half on a cake plate. Using a small offset spatula, spread ¾ cup frosting on top. Carefully set the top cake half back in place. Spread ¾ cup frosting on top. Repeat, stacking the remaining 4 cake halves on top and spreading ¾ cup frosting between each. (Do not frost the top of the last layer.)

9. Spread the top and sides of the cake with 2 cups frosting in a thin smooth layer. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides; apply with the offset spatula using an S motion to create a textured appearance. The cake can be refrigerated, under a cake dome, up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.

tangy chocolate frosting

MAKES 10 CUPS

4½ cups confectioners’ sugar

½ cup good-quality unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ teaspoon salt

12 ounces cream cheese (1½ packages), room temperature

1½ sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened

18 ounces bittersweet chocolate (preferably 70 percent cacao), melted and cooled

1½ cups crème fraîche (12 ounces)

1. Sift the sugar, cocoa, and salt together into a bowl; set aside. Put the cream cheese and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until smooth.

2. Reduce speed to low; gradually mix in the sugar mixture. Pour in the melted chocolate in a slow, steady stream. Gradually mix in the crème fraîche. The frosting can be refrigerated, in an airtight container, up to 3 days. Just before using, bring to room temperature; beat until smooth.

brandied cherry cassata

SERVES 9

3 cups fresh ricotta cheese

2 cups granulated sugar

1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest

1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise

1½ cups drained brandied cherries, plus ¼ cup liquid from jar

Vegetable oil cooking spray

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

½ cup milk

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 large eggs, room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

1. Put the ricotta, ½ cup granulated sugar, and zest in a food processor; scrape in the vanilla seeds. Process until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and then stir in the drained cherries. Refrigerate.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bring ½ cup water and ½ cup granulated sugar to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Let cool completely. Stir in the cherry liquid. Refrigerate. Coat an 8-inch-square baking pan with cooking spray. Line with parchment; coat the lining with spray. Dust with flour; tap out excess.

3. Bring the milk and butter to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from heat. Put the eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment; beat on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy, about 6 minutes. Beat in the remaining cup granulated sugar and the vanilla. On low speed, gradually add the flour. Drizzle in the hot milk mixture. Beat in the baking powder and salt.

4. Pour into the prepared pan. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out