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2/3 cup sugar

¾ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1 large egg, room temperature

¼ cup whole milk

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Chocolate Mousses (recipe follows)

2 ounces solid semisweet chocolate

Chocolate curls, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place eight 6-ounce (3½-inch diameter) ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet, and coat with cooking spray; set aside.

2. Stir flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Attach bowl to mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add egg, milk, oil, vanilla, and ¼ cup water; mix on medium-low speed until smooth and combined, about 3 minutes.

3. Divide batter evenly among prepared ramekins. Bake until a cake tester inserted into the centers comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool completely. Run a knife around sides of cakes; unmold. The cakes can be refrigerated, wrapped in plastic, up to 1 day.

4. Trim each cake to 1 inch high. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cut eight 10¾ × 4-inch strips of parchment paper. Wrap a parchment collar around base of each cake, keeping bottom flush with baking sheet. Secure each collar with tape; set aside.

5. Transfer bittersweet-chocolate mousse to a large pastry bag fitted with a large round tip (such as Ateco #808). Pipe a 1-inch layer of mousse into each parchment collar; refrigerate until set, about 20 minutes. Repeat with milk chocolate mousse, piping on top of the bittersweet chocolate mousse. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, or overnight.

6. Microwave semisweet chocolate until slightly warm but not melted, about 30 seconds. Scrape at a 45-degree angle with a vegetable peeler, forming curls. Before serving cakes, remove parchment collars, and garnish with chocolate curls.

chocolate mousses

MAKES ENOUGH FOR 8 SMALL CAKES

This recipe makes two kinds of mousse: bittersweet chocolate and milk chocolate.

31/3 cups heavy cream

8 large egg yolks, room temperature

½ cup sugar

¼ cup light corn syrup

7 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Salt

7 ounces milk chocolate, melted

1. Put 12/3 cups cream into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment; beat on medium-high speed until soft peaks form, about 3½ minutes. Transfer to a bowl; refrigerate 1 hour.

2. Put 4 egg yolks into the clean bowl of the mixer fitted with the clean whisk attachment; beat on high speed until pale and frothy, 4 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, bring ¼ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons corn syrup, and 2 tablespoons water to a rolling boil in a small, heavy saucepan over high heat. Cook until clear, large bubbles form, about 1 minute. Reduce mixer speed to medium-low. Carefully pour hot syrup down side of bowl. Raise speed to medium-high. Mix until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in bittersweet chocolate, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and a pinch of salt with a rubber spatula.

3. Add one-third of bittersweet-chocolate mixture to whipped cream; whisk to combine. Add remaining mixture, whisking until completely combined. Press through a large-mesh sieve into a large bowl; discard any solids. Repeat entire recipe, substituting milk chocolate for the bittersweet.

NOTE The egg yolks in this recipe are not fully cooked. It should not be prepared for pregnant women, babies, young children, the elderly, or anyone whose health is compromised.

strawberry mousse cake

SERVES 8 TO 10

for the mousse

1 pound strawberries, hulled and halved, plus 2 cups sliced strawberries

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

8 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

1¼ teaspoons unflavored gelatin

2 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

for the cake

Vegetable oil cooking spray

1 cup sifted cake flour, plus more for baking sheet

5 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks

¾ cup sugar

Pinch of salt

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

for the ganache

2/3 cup heavy