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5. Puree the onion, hydrated chiles, chipotle chiles, tomatoes, garlic, and oregano in a blender, adding a small amount of the reserved soaking liquid if the mixture seems dry. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into the skillet. Cook over medium heat, stirring, 5 minutes. Add the remaining soaking liquid. Simmer until the sauce is thickened, 12 to 15 minutes. Season with salt. If not serving immediately, refrigerate up to 2 days; reheat over low (add water if the sauce seems too thick).

green chile sauce

MAKES 3 CUPS

1 can (27 ounces) whole green chiles, drained and seeded

6 garlic cloves (do not peel)

4 tomatillos, husked

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small white onion, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano

¾ teaspoon ground cumin

Coarse salt

1. Puree the chiles in a blender, adding a little water if the puree seems dry.

2. Cook the garlic and tomatillos in a dry large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until golden brown and softened, about 8 minutes. Peel the garlic. Coarsely chop the garlic and tomatillos; set aside.

3. Heat the oil in the same skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Cook the onion until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chile puree, garlic, tomatillos, ½ cup water, and the oregano and cumin. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer until the sauce is thickened, about 15 minutes. Season with salt. If not serving immediately, refrigerate up to 2 days; reheat over low (add water if the sauce seems too thick).

triple-citrus coffee cake

MAKES TWO 16-INCH LOAVES; EACH SERVES 6 TO 8

13 tablespoons (15/8 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for the bowl

½ cup water, warmed to 110° F

2 envelopes active dry yeast (2 scant tablespoons)

2/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

2 large eggs, lightly beaten, plus 1 large egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Finely grated zest of 1 orange

1 teaspoon fine salt

5 to 6 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 pound (two 8-ounce bricks) cream cheese, room temperature

1 cup confectioners’ sugar

2 large egg yolks

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 cup dried cranberries (4¼ ounces)

2/3 cup poppy seeds

1. Butter a large bowl; set aside. Stir the warm water, yeast, and 1 teaspoon granulated sugar in another large bowl until the yeast dissolves. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the orange juice, 2 eggs, remaining 2/3 cup granulated sugar, ½ cup butter, citrus zests, and salt. Stir in 5 cups flour, 1 cup at a time (add up to 1 cup flour if needed), until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and forms a ball.

2. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface; knead until smooth and slightly sticky, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the buttered bowl; brush the dough with 1 tablespoon butter. Loosely cover with plastic wrap; let the dough rise until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours.

3. Meanwhile, stir the cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, egg yolks, and vanilla in a small bowl until smooth. Stir in the dried cranberries and poppy seeds; set aside.

4. Butter 2 baking sheets; set aside. Punch down the dough, and divide it in half. Roll out 1 half into an 11 × 15-inch rectangle. Brush with 2 tablespoons butter, leaving a ½-inch border. Spread 1½ cups filling evenly over the butter. Beginning at 1 long side, tightly roll the dough into a log, encasing the filling. Pinch the seam to seal.

5. Carefully transfer the log to a prepared baking sheet. With a sharp knife, make 6 cuts, about 2 inches apart, along 1 long side of the log, cutting three-quarters of the way across. Lift the first segment, turn it cut side up, and lay it flat. Repeat with the next segment, twisting so it sits on the opposite side of the roll. Continue down the log, alternating sides. Repeat with the remaining dough, butter, and filling; place on the