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2. Remove the cod from the soaking liquid, and place it in a large pot. Cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, and simmer 20 minutes. Drain cod; let cool, and break into large pieces. Transfer to a food processor; add garlic, and process until the mixture is coarsely chopped.

3. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, warm the cream until hot; do not bring to a boil. While processing the cod mixture, slowly add the cream through the feed tube. Add the oil and lemon juice in the same manner; blend until creamy and fluffy. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Heat the broiler with the rack placed in the upper third of the oven. Lay the baguette slices on a baking sheet; drizzle each slice with oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place the baking sheet under the broiler; toast the bread until the edges are lightly browned, about 1 minute. Remove from the oven; let cool. Spread the brandade on the crostini; serve.

stuffed quahogs

MAKES 10

Quahogs are found mainly off the eastern coast of the United States; steamer clams may be used instead.

1 baguette, crusts removed and insides cut into ¼-inch dice (about 4 cups)

¼ pound chorizo, chopped into ¼-inch dice

10 quahogs (about 5 pounds)

1/3 cup olive oil

10 garlic cloves, chopped (about ¼ cup)

2 onions, finely chopped (about 3 cups)

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the cubed bread on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast until dry, about 15 minutes. Set aside.

2. In a sauté pan set over medium-high heat, cook the chorizo, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the chorizo is lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chorizo from the fat, and transfer it to a paper-towel–lined plate. Blot dry, and set aside.

3. Under running water, scrub the clams clean. Place in a large stockpot, and add 2/3 cup water. Cover the pot, and place over high heat. Steam until all clams have opened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the clams from the pot, discarding any that did not open; strain the broth through a paper-towel–lined fine strainer; set aside.

4. Remove the meat from the shells. Chop into ¼-inch pieces; set aside. Separate the shells into halves; clean them thoroughly by boiling in a large pot of water for 5 minutes. Remove the shells from the pot; let cool.

5. In a large sauté pan set over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Cook the garlic, onions, and red pepper flakes, stirring, until the onions are soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.

6. In a large mixing bowl, beat 1 cup reserved clam broth into the eggs. Add the onion mixture, clams, chorizo, and herbs; toss well. Add the bread cubes. Fold together until just mixed. Season with pepper.

7. Heat the grill. Fill each clamshell with stuffing, about ¼ to 1/3 cup filling per shell. Dot the top of each filled shell with butter. Place the quahogs, stuffing side up, on the grill; cook, covered, for 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate; serve warm.

bûcheron with cucumbers, basil, and figs

SERVES 6

Bûcheron is a tangy, mild goat cheese. We like to serve it drizzled with a deep, intensely flavored extra-virgin olive oil.

1 baguette, halved lengthwise and cut into 3-inch-long pieces

½ pound Bûcheron or other soft goat cheese, sliced

6 fresh figs, halved, for garnish

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cucumbers

1 sprig basil, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet. Toast in the oven, turning once, until golden, about 5 minutes per side. Remove from the oven, and set aside on a serving plate.

2. Arrange the cheese with the figs on serving plates. Allow to come to room temperature. Drizzle the oil over the cheese. Slice the cucumbers into