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3. Stir in the sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved. Continue cooking, stirring often and skimming foam from the surface with a slotted spoon, until the mixture is set and registers 220°F on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. (To test if the marmalade has set, place a small amount on a well-chilled plate. Press gently with your finger; the marmalade should wrinkle. If it doesn’t, continue to simmer, 5 to 10 minutes more. Test again; repeat as needed.)

4. Let cool, then transfer to an airtight container. Marmalade can be refrigerated up to 1 month. (Alternatively, transfer the marmalade to sterilized canning jars and process according to the jar manufacturer’s instructions.)

apricot-raisin chutney

MAKES 2½ CUPS

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ small onion, finely chopped (about ½ cup)

1 pound apricots, peeled, quartered, and pitted

½ cup sugar

½ cup good-quality honey

1/3 cup raisins

¼ cup cider vinegar

1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion; cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 4 minutes.

2. Transfer the onion to a large saucepan. Add the apricots, sugar, honey, raisins, and vinegar. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until thickened, about 25 minutes.

3. Pour the chutney into a large bowl, and let cool completely. The chutney can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before serving.

strawberry preserves

MAKES 2½ CUPS

These preserves can be canned and stored for up to 1 year; multiply the recipe, if you like.

2 pounds strawberries, hulled

1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup sugar

1. Put the strawberries and lemon juice in a large saucepan. Cook, stirring occasionally, over low heat until the juices are released, about 40 minutes. Stir in the sugar.

2. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture registers 210°F on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely; skim foam from the surface with a spoon. The preserves can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 months.

chile-citrus ketchup

MAKES 2½ CUPS

1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes

1 medium onion, quartered

3 garlic cloves, crushed with the flat side of a large knife

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup cider vinegar

2 teaspoons dry mustard

Pinch of ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground allspice

Pinch of chili powder

½ teaspoon finely grated orange zest plus 1 cup fresh orange juice (2 oranges total)

2 tablespoons brewed espresso

1 bay leaf

1 fresh habanero chile

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Puree the diced tomatoes and juice, onion, garlic, and sugar in a food processor. Transfer the tomato mixture to a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot. Add the vinegar, 1 cup water, and the dry mustard, nutmeg, allspice, chili powder, orange zest, orange juice, espresso, bay leaf, and habanero chile.

2. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 50 minutes.

3. Remove the chile. Puree half or whole chile (depending on desired heat) with 1 cup ketchup in the food processor. Return the ketchup to the pot; stir until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Let cool completely. The ketchup can be refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 2 weeks.

tarragon tartar sauce

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

1 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons sweet relish

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons drained capers, rinsed

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Stir together the mayonnaise, relish, lemon juice, capers, tarragon, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. The sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week.

fennel spice mix

MAKES 2 TABLESPOONS

Toss this mix with 2 pounds potatoes just before grilling. See Side Dishes for grilling instructions.

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon ground fennel