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½ cup red or white pearl onions, blanched and peeled

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 jarred roasted red pepper, finely chopped

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, thinly sliced

½ cup pitted green Cerignola olives, thinly sliced lengthwise

1 garlic clove, minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 dried red chiles, crumbled

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup sherry vinegar

¼ teaspoon coarse salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Put onions, butter, and 2 tablespoons water in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Cover; cook until onions cook through, about 6 minutes. Cool. Quarter onions. Combine with remaining ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 3 days. Serve cold or at room temperature.

roasted tomato and chipotle salsa

MAKES ABOUT 3½ CUPS

The silky texture of this puréed sauce belies the kick of its chipotle and cascabel peppers, which are similar in heat to cayenne. Serve it with chips or crudités.

3 dried chipotle peppers

2 dried cascabel peppers

2 cups boiling-hot water

4 medium tomatoes, halved

½ small white onion, coarsely chopped

¼ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro

1 cup soybean oil

1 teaspoon coarse salt

1. Preheat the broiler. Put peppers into the hot water; cover, and let stand until soft, about 15 minutes. Discard stems.

2. Put tomatoes onto a baking sheet. Broil tomatoes, turning once, until blackened, about 4 minutes per side.

3. Puree peppers, tomatoes, onion, and cilantro in a food processor until smooth. With the machine running, pour in the oil in a slow, steady stream. Season with salt. The salsa can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 5 days. Serve warm or at room temperature.

summer bagna cauda

SERVES 6

Set out a dish of peppery extra-virgin olive oil with a dash of aged balsamic vinegar, Vincotto (sweet Italian vinegar), or verjus for dipping.

Whole milk, for soaking

2 ounces anchovy fillets

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 young garlic cloves (or regular garlic), finely chopped

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Sea salt flakes and freshly ground pepper

4 pounds fresh vegetables, such as celery, Belgian endive, young wild fennel (halved lengthwise), Persian cucumbers (halved or quartered lengthwise), purple scallions, and Romano beans

Calimyrna figs, for serving

1. Put milk into a shallow dish. Add anchovy fillets; soak 10 minutes. Drain on paper towels; pat dry. Coarsely chop.

2. Put ¼ cup oil and the garlic into a small saucepan over low heat. Cook until garlic softens but does not brown, about 5 minutes. Add anchovies. Cook, whisking constantly, 1 minute. Add butter. Cook, whisking, until butter has melted.

3. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in the remaining ¼ cup oil in a slow, steady stream until mixture thickens and comes together. If the mixture separates at any point, add 2 ice cubes, and whisk until mixture comes together; remove partially melted ice cubes.

4. Whisk in lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature with the vegetables and the figs.

zucchini, avocado, and pomegranate salsa

SERVES 6; MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

2 zucchini (about 1 pound), trimmed and cut into ½-inch dice (about 3½ cups)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh oregano

¾ teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1 cup)

½ cup pomegranate seeds

1 tablespoon crumbled feta cheese

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

3 whole-wheat pitas (6 inches each)

Olive oil cooking spray

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Toss zucchini with oil, oregano, ¼ teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a bowl. Spread zucchini in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast, tossing once, until tender and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack; let zucchini cool completely. (Leave oven on.)

2. Transfer zucchini to a medium bowl. Add onion, avocado, pomegranate seeds, feta,