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strained yogurt

MAKES 1 ½ CUPS

32 ounces whole-milk yogurt

Put the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined sieve placed over a bowl. Cover the bowl; refrigerate at least 4 hours. Discard liquid.

herb fritters

SERVES 4

Crisp herb fritters are an unusual way to savor fresh herbs. Dipped in beer batter, fried lightly in oil, and served with lemon wedges, they make a delightful accompaniment to a glass of wine. If the batter is too thick, thin with a little water; if it is too thin, add a little flour.

2 large eggs, separated

1½ tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for frying

½ cup beer

¾ cup all-purpose flour

3 ounces assorted herbs, such as basil, mint, sage, parsley, oregano, tarragon, and chives

1 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more for seasoning

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Whisk together the yolks, oil, and beer in a bowl. Slowly add the flour, whisking until just combined. Set aside for 20 minutes. Wash and dry the herbs. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks; fold into the beer batter. Add the salt and pepper.

2. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 1 inch oil over medium heat until hot but not smoking, about 375°F on a fry thermometer. Dip each herb into the batter, shaking off excess, until lightly coated. Place the herbs in the oil, turning until golden, about 1 minute. Drain on paper towels; season with salt. Serve with lemon wedges.

shrimp and avocado seviche

SERVES 8 TO 10

4 limes

2 pounds medium shrimp

¼ cup fresh lime juice (about 3 limes)

6 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped

2 to 4 serrano chiles, finely chopped

¼ cup cider vinegar

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican

2 large ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, and diced

¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 teaspoons salt

Tortilla chips, for serving

1. Fill a large pot with 1 quart water. Cut the 4 limes in half, and squeeze their juice into the pot; add the lime halves. Bring to a boil, then turn off heat; let the mixture steep about 10 minutes. Return to a boil.

2. Add the shrimp to the pot. As soon as the water returns to a rolling boil, pour the shrimp mixture into a colander; discard the cooking liquid and limes. Return the shrimp to the pot; cover, and let stand 15 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a baking sheet and spread them out; let stand until cool enough to handle.

3. Peel and devein the shrimp, and cut them into thirds. Transfer to a medium bowl; stir in ¼ cup lime juice and the scallions, chiles, vinegar, thyme, and oregano. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

4. When ready to serve, stir the avocados, cilantro, and salt into shrimp mixture. Serve with tortilla chips.

parmesan-dusted meatballs

SERVES 8 TO 10

1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted

1½ teaspoons sugar

¾ cup plain bread crumbs

¼ cup milk

½ pound ground beef chuck

½ pound ground pork

1 large egg, lightly beaten

½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish

1/3 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 tablespoons dried currants

2 teaspoons salt

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

3 tablespoons olive oil

1. In a food processor, pulse 1/3 cup of the almonds with the sugar until finely ground. Coarsely chop the remaining almonds.

2. In a bowl, mix the bread crumbs and milk. Add the almonds, beef, pork, egg, ½ cup Parmesan, parsley, currants, salt, and allspice. Mix until combined. Form into 1-inch balls.

3. Heat 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add half the meatballs, and sauté until they are cooked through, about 7 minutes. Transfer the meatballs to a platter. Repeat with the remaining oil and meatballs. Garnish with Parmesan, and serve immediately.

watermelon skewers

SERVES 8 TO 10

¼ large seedless watermelon, cut into ¾-inch cubes

2 bunches fresh mint, leaves separated

10 ounces ricotta salata, cut into ½-inch cubes

Freshly ground pepper (optional)

1. Arrange the melon cubes on a serving platter.