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1. In a large heavy skillet, spread the sugar in an even layer over medium-high heat. Add the vanilla bean and seed scrapings. Without stirring, let cook until the outer edges of the sugar melt and begin to turn golden, about 5 minutes.

2. With a wooden spoon, slowly stir together the melted and unmelted sugar until all the sugar is melted, clear, and golden. At arm’s length, carefully pour in 1 cup water while stirring rapidly. Continue stirring until the mixture has melted completely. Transfer to a bowl to cool, about 1 hour. Discard the vanilla pod. The sauce may be made 1 day ahead and kept at room temperature in an airtight container.

caramel sauce—wet method

MAKES 1 CUP

¾ cup boiling water

1 cup sugar

Dash of pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon cognac

Combine ¼ cup boiling water and sugar in a medium saucepan. Cook over high heat until the sugar dissolves. Once dissolved, do not stir; let cook until caramel forms, brushing down the sides of the pan with a damp pastry brush as needed to keep crystals from forming, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and slowly whisk in the remaining ½ cup boiling water at arm’s length, being careful not to splatter the hot caramel. Remove from the heat, and stir in the vanilla and cognac. The sauce may be used warm or at room temperature.

THE COLOR OF CARAMEL

Caramel is sugar that has been taken just to the edge of burning. Caramel’s color reveals the extent to which it is cooked. The palest form is just concentrated sugar syrup. The next stage is golden, followed by amber and then dark. For most culinary purposes, amber is the color of choice for its deep golden hue and nutty, sweet flavor.

swiss meringue for pies

MAKES ENOUGH FOR HIGH TOPPING FOR 1 PIE OR LOW TOPPING FOR 2 PIES

This fluffy cooked meringue makes the best pie topping. It is easiest to beat the mixture with an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

7 large egg whites

¾ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

Combine the egg whites, sugar, and salt in a heatproof bowl. Set over a pan of simmering water; beat with a whisk until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Remove the bowl from the heat; beat until stiff peaks form. Use immediately.

swiss meringue

MAKES 4 CUPS

This meringue works well for piping shapes. Using the whisk attachment to beat the egg whites in the final stage works best; warming the egg whites helps dissolve the sugar, giving the meringue greater volume.

4 large egg whites, room temperature

1 cup sugar

Pinch of cream of tartar

½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Fill a medium saucepan one-quarter full with water. Set the saucepan over medium heat, and bring the water to a simmer.

2. Combine the egg whites, sugar, and cream of tartar in the heatproof bowl of an electric mixer; place over the saucepan. Whisk constantly until the sugar is dissolved and the whites are warm to the touch, 3 to 3½ minutes. Test by rubbing the mixture between your fingers to ensure that no sugar remains.

3. Attach the bowl to the electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and beat, starting on low speed and gradually increasing to high, until stiff, glossy peaks form, about 10 minutes. Add the vanilla, and mix until combined. Use the meringue according to the instructions in the recipes.

crème anglaise

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

You can make this sauce up to 2 days ahead; press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate.

4 large egg yolks

¼ cup sugar

1 cup milk

¾ cup heavy cream

½ vanilla bean, halved lengthwise

1. Whisk together the yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until pale, about 4 minutes.

2. Pour the milk and cream into a medium saucepan. Scrape in the vanilla seeds; add the bean. Heat over medium heat until just about to simmer. Reduce heat to low; whisk 1/3 cup into the egg yolk mixture. Return to the pan. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon, about 8 minutes.

3. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a stainless-steel bowl set in a large ice-water