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2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour with salt and pepper to taste. Slowly whisk the milk into the flour to make a paste. Continue to add milk slowly, whisking constantly, until the batter is slightly thickened and has a very smooth consistency; set aside.

3. Remove the ricotta from the cheesecloth, and discard the liquid. In another medium bowl, stir together the drained ricotta, mozzarella, marjoram, and parsley, and season with salt and pepper. Gently open the squash-blossom petals, and, using a small spoon or pastry bag, fill a blossom about two-thirds full with the ricotta mixture. Wrap the petals around the mixture to seal. Using your fingers, gently press the blossom to evenly distribute the filling. Repeat, filling all the blossoms.

4. In a small saucepan fitted with a deep-fry thermometer, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat to 375°F. Place the stuffed blossoms in the reserved batter until completely coated. Lift out, and gently drag the blossom against the edge of the bowl to remove excess batter. Carefully slip as many blossoms into the hot oil as will comfortably fit without crowding. Fry the blossoms until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon, and transfer to several layers of paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt, and serve immediately.

cucumber and smoked salmon “sandwiches”

SERVES 8 TO 10

¼ pound smoked salmon, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lime

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 English cucumber

¼ cup crème fraîche, well chilled

1 lime, peeled and segmented, each segment cut into 4 pieces

1. Make the tartare: In a small bowl, combine the salmon, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and zest. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Using a paring knife or vegetable peeler, remove the skin on two opposite sides of the cucumber. Trim the ends, and cut the cucumber crosswise into 48 ¼-inch-thick slices. Place the slices on paper towels to dry.

3. Using a butter knife or a small offset spatula, spread about ½ teaspoon crème fraîche on half of the cucumber slices, and then top with 1 teaspoon tartare. Place the remaining cucumber slices on top, followed by a small dollop of crème fraîche and a piece of lime. Serve immediately, or chill, covered with plastic wrap, up to 1 hour.

lettuce bundles with spicy peanut noodles

SERVES 6 TO 8

This is a great dish to serve at an informal lunch or dinner party. Set out all the ingredients, and let your guests assemble their own bundles. Store-bought roasted duck or chicken can be used; skip step 2.

½ cup Spanish peanuts or other peanuts

2 boneless whole duck or chicken breasts

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons soy sauce

Canola oil

1 large garlic clove

1 ¾-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut in half

2¼ teaspoons chile paste

¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons smooth, good-quality peanut butter

3 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup plus 1½ teaspoons peanut oil

Juice of 1 lime

4½ tablespoons water, or more if needed

Coarse salt

6 ounces vermicelli or capellini (angel hair) noodles

2 ounces garlic chives or scallions, cut into 4-inch lengths

1 Japanese or Kirby cucumber, thinly sliced

2 heads Boston or other butterhead lettuce, leaves separated

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the peanuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet; toast until they are golden and aromatic, 5 to 8 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure the nuts toast evenly. When cool enough to handle, roughly chop the nuts; set aside.

2. Place the duck or chicken breasts in a resealable plastic bag with ½ cup of the soy sauce, and let marinate for 1 hour. Heat a lightly oiled grill or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Grill the duck or chicken breasts until cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes per side for duck and 4 to 6 minutes per side for chicken. Let cool slightly, and shred with your fingers, or cut into ½-inch-wide strips with a knife.

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