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4. Return the onion puree to the saucepan. Stir in the cream. Reheat over medium heat, stirring, until heated through but not boiling. Season with salt, if desired. Serve, topped with caramelized onions.

chilled yogurt-spinach soup with shrimp

MAKES 5 CUPS; SERVES 4

1½ cucumbers (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

2 7-ounce containers plain low-fat (2 percent) Greek yogurt

1¾ cups low-sodium store-bought chicken broth

2 scallions, white and pale-green parts cut crosswise into ½-inch pieces, dark-green parts julienned

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

5 ounces baby spinach

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped red onion

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 pound rock shrimp, rinsed well

1. Stir together the cucumbers, half the yogurt, ¾ cup of the broth, the pieces of scallions, and 1 teaspoon salt; season with pepper. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the garlic; cook until just golden, about 1 minute. Add the spinach; cook, stirring, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir into the yogurt mixture.

2. Working in batches, puree the mixture in a food processor. Transfer to a large bowl, and stir in the remaining yogurt, the onion, and the lemon juice. Refrigerate, covered, until cold, about 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, put the remaining 1 cup broth, ¾ cup water, and ½ teaspoon salt in a medium saucepan; season with pepper. Bring to a boil. Add the shrimp; cook until pink and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain. Refrigerate the shrimp, covered, until cold, about 1 hour. Divide the soup and shrimp among 4 bowls. Garnish with julienned scallions.

zucchini-mint soup

SERVES 4

You can also serve this soup cold or at room temperature. Puree it in batches to prevent overflow (particularly because you do so while it’s hot), if needed. You can stir in a small amount of water to thin the soup after pureeing it, if you like.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium white onion, finely chopped (about 1¼ cups)

1 small garlic clove, crushed with the flat side of a large knife

Coarse salt

3 medium zucchini (about 1½ pounds), thinly sliced crosswise

1¼ cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh mint leaves

1. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ¾ teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the zucchini; cook, stirring occasionally, until the skins turn bright green, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and 1 cup water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, partially covered, until the zucchini is tender, about 12 minutes. Let cool slightly.

2. Puree the zucchini mixture in a food processor. Return to the pan. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the mint. Season with salt, if desired. Sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon mint. Serve immediately. Keep warm on stove over medium-low heat, if necessary.

herbed tomato soup

MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, coarsely chopped

12 large garlic cloves

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh lovage or celery leaves

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt

6 pounds tomatoes, chopped

1 to 1½ cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

½ cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves

Crostini, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, celery, parsley, lovage, and salt. Cook, stirring, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer until the tomatoes are soft and mixture is slightly reduced, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the basil; cook until fragrant, about 5 minutes.

2. Pass the soup through the medium plate of a food mill set