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1 fresh or dried bay leaf

4 whole cloves

1¾ cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

1 head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets

1 russet potato, peeled and quartered

1 bulb fennel, trimmed and chopped into 2-inch pieces

1 large white onion, coarsely chopped

½ cup milk

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper

Toasted Pumpkinseeds (recipe follows)

¼ cup pumpkinseed oil (optional)

1. Wrap the bay leaf and cloves in cheesecloth; tie with kitchen twine. Place in a large saucepan; add the stock, cauliflower, potato, fennel, onion, and 5½ cups water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat, and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 25 minutes. Discard the clove bundle.

2. Working in batches and filling the blender no more than halfway, puree the soup until smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan; stir in the milk. Place over medium heat until just heated through (do not boil). Add the nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper.

3. Sprinkle the soup with pumpkinseeds, and drizzle with pumpkinseed oil, if desired. Serve hot or at room temperature.

toasted pumpkinseeds

MAKES 1 CUP

1 cup raw pumpkinseeds or pepitas, hulled

1 tablespoon olive oil

Coarse salt

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Combine the seeds and oil on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Season with salt; toss to combine. Spread in a single layer. Toast until crisp, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.

four-onion ginger soup with goat cheese toasts

SERVES 6

You will need to make the stock at least 1 day before you make the soup.

12 thin slices bacon (about ½ pound)

1½ pounds each white, yellow, and red onions, thinly sliced lengthwise

1 piece (1 ounce) fresh ginger, peeled and finely julienned (1/3 cup)

1½ pounds shallots, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons very thinly sliced fresh sage leaves, plus leaves for garnish

2 quarts Dark Chicken Stock (recipe follows)

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

½ baguette, halved lengthwise

Olive oil, for brushing

3 ounces fresh goat cheese

1. In a large high-sided skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper-towel–lined plate to drain. Pour off all but 1½ tablespoons fat; reserve for another use.

2. Add the onions and ginger to the skillet; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Add the shallots and sage. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally as onions reduce, until they are very soft and caramelized, about 1 hour. (Add a few tablespoons stock or water if the onions start to stick to the skillet.)

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Pour the stock into the skillet, and bring it to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook 15 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Meanwhile, cut each bread half diagonally into 6 ½-inch-thick pieces. Brush with oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a baking sheet, and toast in the oven until golden, about 20 minutes.

5. Spread the toasts with goat cheese; top each with a bacon slice. Divide the soup among 6 bowls; garnish with sage leaves, and serve each with 2 toasts on the side.

dark chicken stock

MAKES 2 QUARTS

3 pounds chicken thighs

3 pounds chicken wings

2 large Spanish onions, quartered

1 bunch carrots, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces

7 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 garlic head, halved crosswise

2 fresh or dried bay leaves

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

½ bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer in a large roasting pan. Roast, turning once halfway through, until skins are golden brown and crisp, about 1½ hours. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic; roast 30 minutes more. Transfer to a large stockpot; set aside.

2. Pour 1 cup water into the roasting pan; bring to a boil over high heat. Deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon; pour the liquid into the pot. Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, parsley, and 3½ quarts