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2 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

1 teaspoon rice-wine vinegar

2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce

3 cups (about 3 ounces) spinach, tough stems discarded, rinsed well, drained, and cut into 2-inch-wide strips

4 scallions, thinly sliced diagonally into 2-inch pieces

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles, and cook until al dente, according to package instructions, about 8 minutes. Drain in a colander, toss with the sesame oil, and return to the pot. Keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium sauté pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the ginger, shallots, and mushrooms; cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to soften and turn golden brown, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir the chicken stock, vinegar, and soy sauce into the pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook until the mushrooms are very tender, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach and scallions, and stir to combine.

4. To serve, divide the noodles among 4 shallow bowls; ladle the soup over the noodles.

clam and corn chowder

SERVES 8 TO 10

6 ears corn, shucked

2 Spanish onions

1 large carrot, cut into large pieces

3 stalks celery, cut into large pieces

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 dried bay leaf

4 sprigs thyme

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

1 cup dry white wine

4 pounds littleneck clams, scrubbed

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1¼ pounds small red potatoes, cut into chunks

¾ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon chopped and seeded jalapeño pepper

1. Make the stock: Cut the corn kernels from the cobs; set aside. Slice 1 of the onions, unpeeled, into 8 wedges. In a stockpot, combine the cobs, onion wedges, carrot, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme. Add 2 quarts water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper. Strain; discard the solids. The stock can be refrigerated up to 1 week.

2. In a large, wide saucepan, bring the wine to a simmer. Add the clams. Cover; steam until the clams open, 5 to 7 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Drain in a sieve set over a bowl; reserve and chill the liquid. Shuck the clams; halve large ones. Refrigerate, submerged in a bit of reserved liquid.

3. Finely dice the remaining onion. In a large stockpot set over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the diced onion; cook, stirring, until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the potatoes and reserved corn kernels; cook 3 to 4 minutes.

4. Add 3½ cups reserved stock and 1 cup reserved clam liquid to the pot, leaving behind any sediment. Bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer. Cook until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes. Stir in the cream, and remove from heat. Puree 2 cups; return to the pot, and stir. (Cooled chowder can be refrigerated, covered, overnight.)

5. Add the chives, jalapeño, and reserved clams to the pot. Adjust the seasoning; serve.

roasted vegetable soup

SERVES 8 TO 10

2 medium eggplants (about 2 pounds)

2 red onions, each cut into 8 wedges

2 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

2½ pounds ripe plum tomatoes

6 large garlic cloves

3 large red bell peppers (about 2 pounds)

1 quart homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken stock

2 cups lightly packed fresh basil leaves (about 1 large bunch), plus more for garnish

1 sprig marjoram

1 large piece (3 by 4 inches) Parmesan rind (from a 3-ounce piece), plus grated Parmesan for garnish

1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Prick the eggplants, and place them in a baking pan with the onions; toss with the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast in the upper third of the oven, turning once, until the eggplants are soft and the onions browned, about 1¼ hours. Let cool.

2. Meanwhile, season the tomatoes with salt and pepper; place in a baking pan with the garlic. Roast on the lower rack of the oven until the tomatoes are soft and juicy, about 30 minutes. Let cool.

3. Roast the peppers over a gas burner or on a baking sheet under the broiler until