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3. Immediately drape the frico over a rolling pin, and let cool slightly to set the shape. Repeat with the remaining cheese mixture. If the skillet gets too hot and the frico begin to color too quickly, remove from heat for several minutes before proceeding.

warm goat cheese with wasabi pea crust, peas, and greens

SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER

Wasabi peas are a popular cocktail snack. In this recipe, they are ground and used to encrust goat cheese buttons, providing an innovative alternative to bread crumbs. For best results, slice the goat cheese with a piece of thread.

2 cups wasabi peas

1 12-ounce log firm fresh goat cheese

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ tablespoon wasabi paste

3 tablespoons rice-wine vinegar

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

Pinch of sugar

Coarse salt

5 ounces sugar snap peas, ends trimmed and string removed (about 1½ cups)

5 ounces snow peas, trimmed (about 1½ cups)

6 ounces pea shoots

1. Place 1½ cups wasabi peas in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until a coarse powder forms; transfer to a large plate.

2. Slice the goat cheese log into 6 1-inch-thick disks. Pour ½ cup olive oil on a small plate. Place the disks, one at a time, in the oil, turning to completely coat. Dredge in the wasabi powder, turning to coat all sides, and shake off excess. Transfer to a baking sheet; cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate 1 hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Prepare an ice-water bath, and set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together the wasabi paste and vinegar. Whisk in the mayonnaise, sugar, and remaining ¼ cup oil until mixture is smooth. Season with salt; set aside.

4. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, and generously add salt. Add the sugar snap and snow peas; blanch until they are tender and bright green, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander; transfer the peas to the ice-water bath to stop cooking and preserve their color. Drain; pat dry with paper towels.

5. Remove the coated goat cheese disks from the refrigerator. Bake until soft and hot in the center, about 7 minutes. Remove from the oven.

6. Combine the blanched peas, pea shoots, and remaining ½ cup wasabi peas in a large bowl. Season with salt, and drizzle with wasabi paste dressing. Toss well to lightly coat, and divide among 6 salad plates. Place 1 goat cheese disk on each plate, and serve immediately.

garden tomato salad

SERVES 20 TO 25

To prevent bruising, snip the basil with sharp kitchen scissors rather than cutting it with a knife. You may use any combination of tomatoes; cut cherry tomatoes in half.

11 pounds (about 33) ripe medium tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 medium red onions, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced into half-moons

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon coarse salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper

1 bunch fresh basil leaves, washed well

Combine the tomatoes and onions in a large serving bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil, and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap; let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour to allow flavors to develop. Snip the basil, and toss it into the salad just before serving.

caesar salad

SERVES 4

2 garlic cloves

1/8 teaspoon coarse salt

¼ pound rustic bread (half a small loaf), crusts removed, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 anchovy fillet (optional)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 heads romaine lettuce (about 10 ounces each), outer leaves discarded, inner leaves cut into 1-inch-wide strips

½ ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a medium bowl, mash 1 garlic clove with the salt to form a smooth paste. Add the bread cubes, and toss to combine. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until crisp and golden brown, about 20 minutes, turning once.

2. Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, mince the remaining garlic clove with the anchovy, if using, to form a smooth paste. Whisk