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The Meat Lover's Meatless Cookbook - Kim O'Donnel [13]

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of liquid to arrive at al dente stage. The rice should be creamy and firm, but not mushy.

Turn off the heat, then stir in the cheese. Taste and add the salt, plus more to taste.

Stir in the add-on veg (details follow), and serve immediately.


Makes 4 servings

Mushroom Variation

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons olive oil, or a

combination of butter and oil

1 shallot bulb, minced

1 pound mushrooms (any or all of

the following: oyster, shiitake,

cremini, rehydrated porcini or

chanterelles, depending on

availability and preference),

washed and sliced thinly

1 sprig fresh thyme, or

½ teaspoon dried (optional)

¼ cup balsamic or sherry vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

In a 10- or 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat and add the shallot. Cook until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring occasionally to keep them from sticking, until browned, up to 10 minutes. Add the thyme, if using. If the pan gets too dry, add 2 tablespoons of water.

As the mushrooms brown, add the vinegar and stir continuously to coat the mushrooms evenly. Remove the thyme sprig, if using. Add the salt and season with the pepper as you see fit.

Turn off the heat, cover, and set aside while the risotto cooks. When the risotto is done, transfer the mushroom mixture to the risotto and stir in.


Spring Meadow Variation

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons olive oil, or a

combination of butter and oil

1 shallot bulb, minced

A total of 2 cups veg, including

any or all of the following:

1 cup asparagus, woody

stems removed, cut into

1-inch pieces; 1 medium-size

leek, thoroughly cleaned,

white part only, quartered

lengthwise, and cut into

¼-inch slices; ½ cup fresh or

frozen green peas

¼ cup white wine, or

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

In a 10- or 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over medium heat and add the shallot. Cook until slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Add the asparagus and leeks, if using (if using peas, wait to add them), and stir well.

Add the wine and cook the veg until tender, about 7 minutes. If using peas, add now, plus the lemon zest and parsley. Stir to combine, add the salt and pepper, taste, and reseason as you see fit.

Turn off the heat and set the veg mixture aside while the risotto cooks. When the risotto is ready, transfer the veg mixture to the risotto and stir in.


Makes 4 servings

Risotto Stock

I like the mild flavor that leeks impart in a stock, but don’t fret if they’re unavailable where you live. Use an extra onion instead.

INGREDIENTS

2 medium-size leeks, thoroughly

cleaned, trimmed of their roots

and cut into fourths (dark

green part can be used)

1 large onion, cut into quarters,

with skin on (clean if

necessary)

1 stalk celery, cleaned and cut

into thirds

3 cloves garlic, peeled but left

whole

10 black peppercorns

5 whole sprigs fresh parsley

6 cups cold water

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Place all the ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring to a lively simmer, then cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes. Strain and return to the saucepan, and keep at a low simmer, covered, until ready to use.


Makes 5 cups


Spinach & Feta Crostata ★ Arugula & Seasonal Fruit

SPINACH & FETA CROSTATA

In Italy, her name is crostata; in France, elle s’appelle galette, but at the end of the day, she’s an easygoing free-form tart that don’t need no stinkin’ tart pan.

Going pan free is a liberating experience; by eliminating the pa(i)n-staking step of fitting delicate, tearable dough into a precious flute-edged pan, the crostata/galette eliminates the anxiety, too, letting cooks be cooks and not pseudo-pastry chefs.

My filling of choice features cool-weather greens seasoned with feta, but feel free to experiment with your own mix of textures and flavors. Following the recipe are details for an autumnal filling with caramelized onions, pears, and goat cheese.

KITCHEN NOTE: Cold is the operative word for

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