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1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa

powder

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon cayenne

⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon saltZit

2 cups tomato puree

1 cup water

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed thoroughly

2 tablespoons tomato paste, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water (optional)

Stir in the chickpeas and cook as one big happy chili, until the chickpeas have arrived at your desired state of tenderness, 10 to 30 minutes. The wide time range is intentional, allowing for cook’s choice. If you find that the chili needs thickening, add the optional tomato paste mixture at this time.

Will keep in an airtight container for at least 5 days.

Makes 6 servings

BARLEY PILAF

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ medium-size onion, minced

1 cup uncooked pearl barley

3 cups warm water

½ teaspoon saltIt

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Pour the oil into a medium-size saucepan and heat over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the barley and stir until well coated with the oil, about 1 minute. The barley will glisten and maybe even make a popping noise.

Pour in the water and bring to a lively simmer. Add the salt. Lower the heat to low, cover, and cook for 30 to 35 minutes, or until tender and liquid is absorbed. If a small amount of liquid remains, turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and leave the barley to continue absorbing the liquid, 10 to 15 minutes.

Serve with the chili.

Makes 4 cups

Egg-in-the-Hole ★ Family-Style Latke

EGG-IN-THE-HOLE

Who knew that an egg cracked into a cut-out piece of bread would have so many names. Maybe you know it as the bull’s-eye, one-eyed jack, eggs in basket, or bird’s nest? Until recently, I ate my eggs scrambled or omelet-style, squeamish about runny yolks and squishy whites. What a dope I’ve been.

But really, I had a change of heart only when I swore off supermarket eggs and started buying locally raised eggs from small farms. The difference in flavor, texture, and color is remarkable; wait till you see that brilliant orange yolk!

Speaking of yolks, this menu is a kick in the pants to put together. Everyone gets an individual parcel, with a liner of greens. Instead of hash browns, you’ll fry up a potato latke that’s bigger than your head—with just one potato.

KITCHEN NOTES: Do all prep for the latke first, including boiling the potato.

While the eggs are in the oven, fry the latke. Should the eggs finish first, turn off the heat and keep in the oven until ready to serve.

For the toad, it’s ideal to use an ovenproof skillet that is no smaller than 12 inches across. That doesn’t mean you should run out and buy a 12-inch ovenproof skillet. Plan B is to use the skillet you have on hand, then transfer the greens to a baking dish that can snugly accommodate all four slices of bread.

As for the latke, I boil the potato whole, then grate it, which creates a starchier result, eliminating the need for egg, matzo meal, or any binder whatsoever.

The latke should be fried in a skillet no wider than 10 inches across, and the shallower the skillet, the better. continues

INGREDIENTS

4 slices sandwich bread

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ cup minced shallot (from 1 large bulb)

6 cups chard or spinach, washed thoroughly and stemmed (My preference is to completely remove the stem from the chard leaves, but it’s cook’s choice.)

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for

sprinkling

¼ teaspoon cayenne

4 large eggs

½ cup grated Gruyère or sharp cheddar cheese

Olive oil, for drizzling

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

With a 2½-inch biscuit cutter or an inverted drinking glass, cut a hole in the center of each slice of bread.

In an ovenproof 12-inch skillet, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add the greens, turning with tongs regularly to coat with the shallot mixture.